How to Grow Asparagus

How to Grow Asparagus.

By eHow Contributing Writer

Instructions.Things You'll Need:

•Compost Makers

•Fertilizers

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Mulch

•Plants

•Shovels

•Plants

•Shovels

Step 1 Choose a site where your plants won't be disturbed - and where you and they can happily coexist for 10 to 15 years.

Step 2 Grow asparagus in partial or full sun (it performs best in full sun) in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0, amended with plenty of organic matter that is rich in potassium and phosphorus.

Step 3 Buy asparagus crowns (established root systems with dormant top growth) at your nursery or through a catalog. In cool regions, plant them in early spring when the soil temperature has reached about 50 degrees F. In warm regions, plant in late winter.

Step 4 Make a 7-inch-deep, V-shaped furrow (or more, depending on how many crowns you're planting) and in each one spread a handful of wood ashes, a handful of bonemeal, and an inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure.

Step 5 Soak the crowns in compost tea for 10 minutes or so and lay them on their sides on top of the organic matter, 12 to 16 inches apart, in rows 4 feet apart. (See "How to Make Compost Tea.")

Step 6 Fill in the furrows gradually as shoots emerge, taking care not to cover any foliage; eventually, the furrow will be level with the soil surface. Don't bother spreading out the roots; they'll find their way down.

Step 7 Weed diligently and mulch heavily with chopped leaves or straw after you've filled in the furrows.

Step 8 Side-dress plants with a balanced organic fertilizer in late summer, and top the bed in organic mulch in the fall.

Step 9 Give new plantings one to two inches of water a week; after that, water only when rainfall is scant.

Step 10 Refrain from harvesting any spears during your plants' first year in your garden. Each spear needs to "fern out" so that the roots can grow stronger and more productive. The second year you can pick a few that reach about the size of your index finger. The third year, pick finger-size spears for two to four weeks in the spring. In subsequent years, take all the finger-size spears you want for six to eight weeks, or until the spears that come up are thin and spindly.

How to Grow Eggplant from Seeds

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

Eggplant seeds

Planting pot

Fertilizer

Soil

Gardening tools

Sunlight, heater, heating mat

Warm environment

Patience

Step 1 Eggplant blossomPlant seeds 6-8 weeks indoors before transplanting. The best time to start is in the first week of April.

Step 2 They are very slow to germinate. Plant several seeds in a pot, 1/2" deep. Keep them warm by using a seedling warmer on the bottom of the soil, or put them near a heater, or in a sunny spot near a window in your house. Keep in mind, but don't be discouraged that only 60-65% of the seeds you plant will germinate; they are very sensitive to temperature and don't grow outside the range of 75-90 degrees F.

Step 3 Young plants need warmth to grow, place them in a warm location with bright light. A week prior planting outside, move the plants to a cool area and feed them less water; cut off about 1/4 the amount you used.

Step 4 If you plant seeds in April, germination will complete in mid to late June. Remove only the strongest seedling. Discard the weak ones; they die soon anyway after transplant, so don't think they are wasted.

Step 5 In mid to late June when weather is consistently fair and warm, transplant outdoors to a hot and bright location, where it is also wind-proofed.

Step 6 Eggplants prefer loose, sandy soil with organic materials (like peat moss) and compost. Plants need heavy watering and heavy fertilizing. Surround each plant with a 2" mulch to help retain moisture around roots. Space each young plant 24 inches apart and spread generously of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer around roots before covering the planting holes. Fertilize every three weeks by sprinkling a handful of granular on the ground around each plant. Mature plants may need staking to help them stand especially when they have fruits.

Step 7 Fruits maturingIf temperature is under 70 degrees F, the fruit will not develop. Also, leaves will grow in minimum sunlight but does not encourage fruit growth.

Step 8 Aphids, beetles are common pest to eggplants. A spray of water usually remove aphids; wash the plants early in the day. Use cardboard collar around the plants or hand pick larvae and eggs if beetles are a problem. You can also buy pesticides specifically for killing these insects - avoid spraying chemicals on the fruit.

Step 9 Harvested eggplants Pick fruit when slightly immature. Constant harvest fruit to encourage flower production. Eggplant is ready to harvest with smooth, glossy and firm skin.

How to Grow Cabbage 2

How to Grow CabbageInstructions.

By Lacy Enderson

Things You'll Need:

•Shade-Cloth

•Flat

•Lightweight Row Cover

•Compost

•Fertilizer

Step 1 Grow your cabbage in at least 50% shade or under a shade-cloth. Start them in flats.

Step 2 Transplant the cabbage so the first real leaves are just above the soil. This should be deep enough to keep the plants stable. Pack the soil so the root system is completely covered.

Step 3 Protect the seedlings after transplant from insects and pests, by covering the cabbage rows with a lightweight cover. Aphids, cabbage worms, and cabbage maggots can spoil your harvest.

Step 4 Make sure to plant your cabbage in a rich soil blended with compost. Fertilize your cabbage patch once a month with a complete fertilizer. Water your cabbage everyday.

Step 5 Plant your cabbage from fall to spring if you live in the West. Plant in mid-summer for colder climates.

How to Grow Chilli Peppers

How to Grow Chilli Peppers

Instructions.
Things You'll Need:


•Chili pepper plants Shovel or garden tiller Compost Ironite Peat moss Sand

Grow Chilli Peppers

Step 1 Prepare the garden for the pepper plants. Dig or till the area that you will need for the number of plants you want to grow. Depending on the size of the variety you are growing, you will need spacing to put them 12 to 16 inches apart. Add compost, quartz sand, ironite and peat moss to the tilled soil. The amounts you will use will depend on the size of your garden, but roughly use a shovel full of peat moss, sand and compost and a couple of handfuls of ironite per each plant. Turn over the mixture into the soil.

Step 2 Plant your pepper plants when the soil temperature reaches about 60 degrees and there is no chance of a returning frost. Place them in the ground at the same level as they are in the containers you purchased them in and space them 12 to 16 inches apart in an area that gets the most direct sunshine.

Step 3 Water the plants deep in the evenings and let them dry out during the day. There is no need to water during the day unless the plants show signs of significant wilt. Using trickle irrigation during the evening works well.

Step 4 Fertilize with a vegetable fertilizer once a month starting a month after planting. There should be enough nutrients in the soil from the compost and ironite that you shouldn't need the fertilizer right away.

Step 5 Go out to your garden daily and pull up any weeds. Weeds will take water and nutrition away from your pepper plants and can possibly strangle them. Don't wait and only pull them once a week or you might get overwhelmed and the weeds will have already stressed your plants

How to Grow Cucumbers

How to Grow Cucumbers

Things You'll Need:

•Cloches

•Compost Makers

•Fertilizers

•Fish Emulsions

•Garden Rakes

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Mulch

•Rototillers

•Trellises

•Vegetable Seeds

Instructions.
Step 1Choose a site with all-day sun, except in hot, dry regions, where cucumbers like some afternoon shade. Soil should have a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.

Step 2Dig deeply and enrich the soil with plenty of compost and well-rotted manure.

Step 3Sow cucumber seeds directly into the ground at least two weeks after the last frost and when both soil and air temperatures average at least 65 degrees F. Expect germination in 3 to 10 days, depending on soil temperature. (The higher the temperature, the faster the seeds will sprout.) Set vining varieties 2 to 3 feet apart; bush types, 18 inches apart.

Step 4Spray the plants with fish emulsion fertilizer about four weeks after germination, or side-dress with compost.

Step 5Mulch the soil once the plants are established to control weeds and conserve moisture.

Step 6Provide at least an inch of water each week, especially when the plants are flowering and fruiting.

Step 7Pick cucumbers when they're still moderate-sized - between 3 and 4 inches for pickling varieties and 6 to 8 inches for slicers - otherwise they'll become seedy and bitter. Cukes mature at the speed of light, so check your plants daily.

How to Grow Onions

How to Grow Onions

The onion family can bring tears to your eyes, literally. Tears aside, onions are a popular vegetable, and a favorite of the home gardener. If they make you cry, why do so many home gardeners grow onions? There are lots of reasons. Try, easy to grow, takes up little space in the home garden, and lots of culinary and medicinal uses. Is that enough reasons!?!

Onions have a place in a tremendous number of recipes from main courses to soups and salads, dips and hors d'oeuvres. It is used in Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, breads, and for snacks. We once thought the only thing onions were not used in was dessert. A reader led us to onion dessert recipes!

Tip: There are lots of ideas to help avoid the tears while cutting onions. Try chewing gum. Others have suggested chewing bread, taffy, etc.

Onions are easy to grow, have a fairly short growing period, and importantly, they take up little space. With just one square foot of garden space, you can grow an onion or two. As a result, even the most space limited gardener usually has a few onions in the garden.

Onions are also good for your health. They were once believed to ward off evil spirits. (We recommend Garlic to be more effective for this use). Onions also have medicinal value. Recent medical studies suggest onions help to lower cholesterol and heart disease.

Did you Know? If you don't have a vegetable garden, place a few in your flower garden. If you rent, put a few in a planting pot or box, and set it on the deck or in a sunny window. Yes, you can grow onions just about anywhere.

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Types:

Common Slicing Varieties: White and Yellow, or Spanish onion

Purple onion -our favorite with it's mild taste, is easier on the gastro-intestinal system

Scallions or Green Onions: Grown for it's long stem, and little or no bulb.

Pearl Onions or Pickling Onions: You guessed it, for pickling

Shallots: A mild tasting, small bulb

Leeks: Like a scallions, it is mild, yet distinctive tasting. The stalk is eaten.

Vidalia Onions - defined more by where they are grown, than the variety. Learn about Vidalia Onions

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Long Day or Short Day?

Most onion varieties begin to form a bulb, when the temperature and hours of daylight reach certain levels.

"Long Day Bulbs" begin to form a bulb, when there is 14-16 hours of daylight. They include Sweet Spanish Onions and Walla Walla onions.

"Short Day Bulbs" will begin to bulb when there is 12 - 14 hours of daylight hours. Short day bulbs include Yellow Granex, Texas Grano and Red Burgundy.

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Growing Onions:

Home gardeners have three choices for starting onions. Onion seeds, seedlings, and sets (or bulbs). Seeds take the longest time, and should be started indoors. Seedlings give you a jump start on growing and are hardy. They can be bought at a garden store or bought mail order.

Plant onions 3 to 4 inches apart, in double rows six to ten inches apart. Leave enough room to get between the rows to weed.

Onions grow best in rich soft soil or loam. But they tolerate most soils, especially if you add sufficient fertilizer. Keep the soil moist, and allow good drainage.

ature sends a message to the onion plant to form a bulb. that signal is warm up and longer daylight hours. Onions are biennials. They will go to seed in the second year, sending up a tall, hard stalk with a seed pod. Many growers do not know this, as we harvest our onions in the first year. Occasionally, the onions go to seed in the first year.

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Harvest:

Pull onions when after the tops have fallen over. Rinse off dirt, and allow the onions to dry in the open air for a few days. Then, cut the tops off the onion and cut off the roots. Allow the cuts to air dry for two or three more days. This will help to seal the onion and avoid pre-mature spoiling.

Tip: To get a really early start, buy onion sets as early a possible. Place a few in some moist (not wet), loose starting mix or potting soil about two to three weeks before you can set them outdoors. They will sprout and develop a good roots system for an early start.

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Insects:

Most members of the onion family are resistant to insect problems. Root maggots can attack the bulbs.Tiny thrips are an occasional problem. Insecticidal soap sprays or sevin are very effective.

Did you know? Onions, garlic and even chives are an ingredient in a number of organic insect sprays.

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Disease of Onions:

The onion family is resistant to most disease.While they are resistant, there are a number of potential ails. Wet, and humid weather can increase the likelihood of disease.

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Hardiness:

Onions are as hardy as they come. Frosts, freezing temperatures, and even snow will not kill them. It will only slow their growth until warmer weather returns. Extended cold below 20-25 degrees however can kill them if they are growing when exposed.

Tip: Plant chives amidst your flower or herb garden once and grows for decades. Plant it along the wall of a house and you extend the season. Chives can also be grown in a sunny window all winter long.

How To Grow Cabbage

1. Soil Preparation:


Cabbage require a firm soil, so do not dig up the plot for several months prior to planting. Some humus must be present, but this should not be freshly applied. Chose a fairly sunny spot that has not had another brassica planted on it in the last 3 years. Dig the plot up in the fall and work in some manure or compost. The soil must not be acidic, so liming in the winter may be necessary. A week before planting apply a fertiliser. Do not fork over the plot prior to planting, but remove any weeds or stones with a rake.

2. Sowing & Planting:

Space your rows 6 inches apart and sow the seeds thinly at a depth of 1/2 inch. Thin your seedlings to 1 foot apart so they do not become weak and thin. These thinings can be used as Spring Greens.

3. Looking After the Plants:

Hoe carefully to eliminate weeds and water if the weather is dry. Apply a liquid fertiliser as the heads begin to form. In the fall, earth up the stems by mounding soil upwards towards the stem, thus firm the soil to protect the plants from wind.

4. Harvesting the Crop:

Cabbages are best harvested with a sharp knife at ground level. With Spring and Summer varieties, cut a small X into the stump; a second crop of small cabbages will grow from these cuts. Typically, cabbages are cut when needed, but should all be harvested in November and stored for winter use. Cut off the roots and stems and remove the outer leaves. Place the cabbages in a straw-lined box, stem-side up and store in a cool, dry place. The crop should keep fresh until March.

5. Storage:

Cabbage should be wrapped in cling wrap where they should stay fresh for 1 week. Cabbage may also be canned or frozen. To freeze the cabbages, select only crisp heads and shred them into large pieces. Blanche for 1 minute and pack into freezer bags once cooled.

How to Grow Grapes

Instructions

Step 1Select the type of grape you want to plant (wine, table or slipskin), then look for a variety that suits your climate. Ask your local nursery professional which variety of grape does best in your area. Some varieties prefer more or less heat and finding a variety that does well in your location is the key to successful viticulture.

Step 2Plant grapes from nursery stock or cuttings in a site located in full sun which is mandatory for good fruit production. The developing fruit requires ample heat. Vines planted in partial shade are susceptible to fungus disease.

Step 3Amend the existing soil so that it is loose, fast draining and loamy. Grapes are very deep rooted, so the deeper you amend the soil, the better. Organic compost added to a depth of 24-36 inches is ideal.

Step 4Provide a trellis or other type of support for the vines. Some varieties grow rampantly and will need ample support. Trellising also keeps the fruit above the surface of the soil where it is susceptible to rot. Grapes can be trained to grow along a south-facing fence or as espalier along the side of a building. Arbors and traditional grape stakes work very well to keep the fruit off the ground.

Step 5Prune grape vines when they are dormant. Fruit is produced on one year old wood, on stems that have formed the previous season. One year wood has smooth bark, older wood has a shaggy appearance. Retain a basic framework and remove long runners to keep plants compact and under control.


Step 6Remove long runners mid-season to keep plants under control.

How to Grow Sunflower Plants

Some folk see a Sunflower as a flower. Others see it as a vegetable. It is of course both, a beautiful flower and a great vegetable! Healthy, nutritious and attractive, Sunflowers have it all. That is probably why sunflowers have spread from their native home in North America, and are now grown around the world!


As homeowners, we adorn our yards and gardens with our choice of dozens of sizes and varieties. We use it to attract birds to our homes. We also enjoy eating the seeds. They are high in protein. Sunflowers are popular as a cooking oil, too.

Sunflowers are also great for kids. The seeds are big and easy to handle, and they require minimal attention. Kids like to grow big things, so a sunflower fits the bill. The end product is not only eye appealing, but makes a great snack. We put Sunflowers, along with pumpkins, as the top two plants for kids to grow.

Native Americans used Sunflowers for a variety of uses. They ground the seeds for making breads and cakes. Like today, the seed was used as a snack. It was used to create dyes for clothing, and as body paint. The plants were used medicinally for ointments and snakebite remedies.

Did you know?: Sunflower plants can grow over 20 feet tall, and their blooms over two feet in diameter? Fall festivals often include competition for the tallest sunflower. Giant Sunflower competitions are a regular at most giant pumpkin weigh-offs.

The most popular giant sunflower plants include: Mammoth, American Giant and Skyscraper.
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Varieties  of Sunflowers:

There are many types of sunflowers. And, gardeners like to grow a wide variety of them.

Sunflowers are basically separated by size. The giant varieties grow over ten feet. Regular sunflowers typically grow from six to ten feet. Miniatures are gaining in popularity as borders. They are very popular in Asia, and grow two to four feet.

Some varieties of sunflowers have one big head or flower. They are usually the giant sunflower varieties. Other large headed varieties, have a few much smaller heads that form on lower branches. Some varieties have multiple heads. These are typically mid sized sunflowers, and are perfect for flower gardens in attracting birds.

Sunflower seeds are usually a dark brown to black, or large, grey and white striped. The latter is the most popular for eating due, to their large size. Don't worry over selection. The birds will eat ample quantities of both, and so will you. Whether you are feeding the wildlife or not, there are plenty of wildlife that enjoy sunflower. They include all sorts of birds of course, squirrels, and rodents.

Giant Sunflowers - Many people find growing these to be addicting. A giant sunflower can be either a very tall plant, or an enormous flowerhead.

Tithonia, or Mexican Sunflower- Grow 4-6 feet tall, with daisy-like flowers. Blooms summer to fall.

Did you know? If you have a pet hamster,mouse, gerbil or bird, adding a few sunflower seeds in their diet as a nice treat.

Sunflower Varieites - See the biggest and the best varieites around.

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Sowing Sunflower Seeds:

"Autumn Sun" Sunflower

Sunflower seeds are best sown outdoors directly into the garden. After planting, cover them with a screen, as the birds and animals love to dig the seeds out. You can also start them in a seedbed and transfer them when they are small.

If you plant sunflowers indoors, use individual peat pots. Start two to three weeks before the last frost date for your area. Plant one or two seeds per pot, thinning to one before planting outdoors.

If you grow them to feed the birds, look for seedlings growing near the base of last year's crop. They can be left to grow, or transplanted to another location.

Whether you plant directly outdoors or transplant them, make the final spacing as follows:

Giants: Space three feet apart in rows three to four feet apart.

Regular/Intermediate sizes: Space two feet apart in rows three feet apart.

Miniatures: Space one foot apart in rows three feet apart.

For individual planting, put the seedling or seeds in just about any sunny location. Plant either individual, in groups, or in patterns. Make sure they are visible from your deck, porch and windows.

Did you know? Sunflowers always point their blooms or face to the rising sun in the East. Keep this in mind as you determine where to plant them.

Tip: Miniatures make great borders or edging plants in flower gardens.

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Days to Maturity:

70 to 90 days or more, depending upon the variety. Read the package for the specific time for the variety you acquire.

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How to Grow Sunflowers:

Sunflower plants grow well in average to rich soils. They need to grow their roots deep and wide, to enable them to withstand strong winds. If you have a choice, sandy soils are not recommended, as they are easily uprooted in loose soil. Rich soil is important, when growing giant varieties.

Contrary to it's name, we found they will tolerate some shade as we put them against an east wall of our house every year. However, they will grow their best in full sun.

Deep roots help sunflowers to withstand most droughts. They will benefit from a dose of fertilizer when you apply it to the rest of your garden. Apply extra phosphorus and potassium when the flower bud begins to develop, to promote bigger blooms.

Tip: If you are crowded for space, plant one or two sunflowers amidst your vine crops. One or two will not seriously shade the vines. Make sure not to plant them near their tap roots for the vines.

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Harvesting:

Harvest sunflower seeds after the flower begins to die back, and most if not all, of the petals have fallen off. Pull out a seed and open it to see if it is full. Cut off the head, leaving a few inches of stalk. Hang the stalks to dry in a well ventilated area. Do not stack them in a box, as mold can develop during the drying process. As soon as the flowers have dried, extract the seeds by rubbing two flower heads together. They should come off of the flowerhead fairly easily.

Sunflowers are also used as dried flowers in vases and for craft projects. They can be cut just before the flowers die off and dried over a few weeks. Miniature sunflowers make lovely fresh bouquets also. For craft projects, it is important to leave a sufficient amount of stalk.

We enjoy sharing this crop with wildlife. We also enjoy eating the seeds, too. Birds and squirrels will begin their assault before the seeds are completely ripe. You can protect against this annual invasion by covering the entire flower with an old nylon stocking, a cheese cloth bag, or any other covering that allows light and especially air to flow through. Do not use plastic bags, as moisture buildup will rot the flower and heat buildup will scald it. Some people will put a bag below the flower to catch any seeds that fall.

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Insects and Pests:

The birds and squirrels are the primary invaders for your Sunflower crop. Fortunately, most insects are not a problem. Occasionally, ants enjoy the nectar from the flower. They are no real threat to the seeds.

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Diseases of Sunflowers:

Sunflowers seldom have disease problems. Score another point for an easy to grow and enjoyable plant!

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Hardiness:

Sunflowers are an annual. They can withstand a mild frost. However, cover your seedlings if a hard spring freeze is anticipated

How to Grow A Peanut Plant

Instructions.Step
1First you will need to acquire peanuts that are ready to be planted.

Search the grocery stores in your area for un-roasted peanuts (raw). The packaging should indicate whether or not the peanuts are cooked, roasted or raw.

Grocery stores usually keep raw and roasted peanuts in the fresh produce section.

Peanuts ready for planting can easily be found for sale on the internet.

Step

2Each peanut plant will need it's own flower pot.

The flower pots should be equal to about one square foot. It's possible to use a small herb pot to grow peanuts in. However, using a bigger flower pot will give you more peanuts.

If you have access to a lot of land, peanuts can be grown in the ground as long as the soil is loose.

Step
3Fill each flower pot with loose potting soil.

Moisten the soil with water.

Step
4Plant one peanut "seed" per flower pot.

Plant peanuts one to two feet apart if you are planting them directly into the ground instead of in flower pots.

Step
5Water the peanuts daily and more if you need to in order to keep the soil moist.

The soil should remain moist until the plants have pushed up out of the dirt.

After the peanut plant is growing and healthy, the soil can dry out for a day without killing the plant.

Step
6Check peanut plants daily for pests.

Don't use any pesticides, fertilizers or harmful chemicals anywhere near your peanut plants!

Step
7Harvest the mature peanut plants before fall.

Gently pull up the entire plant (roots and all.)

Cut off the leaves and add them into your compost bin.

Lay the peanuts out in a dry location for about 3 - 7 days where they will dry.
(Don't place peanuts in direct sunlight to dry)

Step
8Use or store peanuts at this point.

Peanuts should be stored in a dark, dry location at room temperature.

*Throw any black, mushy or moldy peanuts in the garbage!*

Step
9Save and plant some of the peanuts next spring for next years peanut crops.

Homegrown peanuts are good to eat after they have been roasted and salted.

Homemade peanut butter is easy to make and delicious to eat

Raspberry

The raspberry (plural, raspberries) is the edible fruit of a multitude of plant species in the subgenus Idaeobatus of the genus Rubus; the name also applies to these plants themselves. The name originally referred to the European species Rubus idaeus (with red fruit), and is still used as its standard English name.[1]

Raspberries are grown for the fresh fruit market and for commercial processing into individually quick frozen (IQF) fruit, purée, juice, or as dried fruit used in a variety of grocery products. Traditionally, raspberries were a mid-summer crop, but with new technology, cultivars, and transportation, they can now be obtained year-round. Raspberries need ample sun and water for optimal development. While moisture is essential, wet and heavy soils or excess irrigation can bring on Phytophthora root rot which is one of the most serious pest problems facing red raspberry. As a cultivated plant in moist temperate regions, it is easy to grow and has a tendency to spread unless pruned. Escaped raspberries frequently appear as garden weeds, spread by seeds found in bird droppings.


Two types of most commercially grown kinds of raspberry are available, the summer-bearing type that produces an abundance of fruit on second-year canes (floricanes) within a relatively short period in mid-summer, and double- or "ever"-bearing plants, which also bear some fruit on first-year canes (primocanes) in the late summer and fall, as well as the summer crop on second-year canes. Raspberries can be cultivated from hardiness zones 3 to 9.

Raspberries are traditionally planted in the winter as dormant canes, although planting of tender, plug plants produced by tissue culture has become much more common. A specialized production system called "long cane production" involves growing canes for 1 year in a northern climate such as Scotland (UK) or Washington State (US) where the chilling requirement for proper budbreak is met early. These canes are then dug, roots and all, to be replanted in warmer climates such as Spain where they quickly flower and produce a very early season crop. Plants should be spaced 1 m apart in fertile, well drained soil; raspberries are usually planted in raised beds/ridges if there is any question about root rot problems.

The flowers can be a major nectar source for honeybees and other pollinators.

Raspberries are very vigorous and can be locally invasive. They propagate using basal shoots (also known as suckers); extended underground shoots that develop roots and individual plants. They can sucker new canes some distance from the main plant. For this reason, raspberries spread well, and can take over gardens if left unchecked.

The fruit is harvested when it comes off the torus/receptacle easily and has turned a deep color (red, black, purple, or golden yellow, depending on the species and cultivar). This is when the fruits are ripest and sweetest. Excess fruit can be made into raspberry jam or frozen.

The leaves can be used fresh or dried in herbal and medicinal teas. They have an astringent flavour, and in herbal medicine are reputed to be effective in regulating menses.

An individual raspberry weighs about 4 g, on average[2] and is made up of around 100 drupelets,[3] each of which consists of a juicy pulp and a single central seed. Raspberry bushes can yield several hundred berries a year. Unlike blackberries and dewberries, a raspberry has a hollow core once it is removed from the receptacle.


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