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Cheetah Mounts ALAMLB LCD TV Wall Mount Bracket with Full Motion Swing Out Tilt and Swivel Articulating Arm

2011-07-25T03:49:00.001-07:00

Product Description

From the Manufacturer

Cheetah Mounts ALAMLB VESA 200 Articulating Wall Mount

This mount is made from 10 lbs of 100% steel, holds up to 65 LBS, and includes a TV plate which fits hole patterns up to 200x200mm (approximately 8x8”). It is our recommended model for displays in the 23-37” size range. Most LCD arm mounts are made from 2-3lbs of molded composite aluminum material, hold up to 33 LBS, and fit hole patterns of up to 100x100mm (approximately 4x4”). Many TVs/Displays in the 23-37” size range use the larger 100x200mm or 200x200mm hole patterns. If you are unsure as to the hole pattern for your display, this mount fits all VESA hole patterns up to VESA 200. Additionally, regardless of the size of your display or hole pattern, if you would simply like the additional stability and security of a heavier gauge mount, we would recommend this model

This arm collapses to less than 4" from the wall yet extends over 20" allowing you to swivel displays up to 37" a full 180 degrees. The wall plate has center vertical mounting holes for single stud installation and once mounted, the wall plate is concealed by matching cover pieces giving a clean look. Molded cover pieces in each of the three articulating joint sections add to the finished look. At the end of the arm is a VESA 100 plate that comes attached to an included VESA 200 plate. The tilt mechanism at the end of the arm uses a high friction design typically allowing a single user to smoothly adjust the angle of tilt with one hand and then lock it in place with the other. The tilt mechanism tilts both forward and back up to 20 degrees

Features

VESA 100 and 200 compatibility

65lb capacity

180 Degrees Swivel

20.75" of extension

Single Stud Installation

Powder Coat Paint

Separate TV plate for lift and lock installation

All Hardware Included

Installation Manual

Specifications

Model ALAMLB

Supported VESA Patterns 50x50mm (2x2”)

75x75mm (3x3")

100x100mm (4x4")

100x200mm (4x8")

200x200mm (8x8")

Unit Weight Net: 8LBS Gross: 9 LBS

Shipping Dimensions 12x10x4”

Unit Materials Arms, Wall Plate and TV Plate: 100%

High Grade Steel

Arm Covers: Polyurethane

Tilt Range +/-20°

Swivel Range < Up to 180°

Minimum/Maximum Extension 4.75” up to 21.25”

Profile From Wall 1.9"

Wall Plate Dimensions 10.25”H x 2.25”W (single stud installation)

Holding Weight 65LBS

Whats in the Box

Wall plate with Extending Arms

Vertical Brackets for TV

Hardware for Wood Stud Installations

Hardware for concrete Wall Installations

Parts list and installation manual

Click here for complete part details

Product Description

This mount fits the majority of displays in the 23-32" size range and some models up to 42". Specifically, it fits VESA 50 - 200 hole patterns and TVs weighing up to 65lbs. If you are unfamiliar with VESA patterns, these are square or rectangular patterns between 2 and 8 inches per side. This mount provides 20" of extension, 180 degrees of rotation, +/- 15 degrees of tilt, 4 degrees of rotation adjustment, and collapses to 2.7" from the wall. The load bearing portions of the mount are constructed from High Grade Steel providing a sturdy and reliable mount and separate cover pieces for the wall plate and pivot joints providing a clean finished look. The package includes the mount, manual, all necessary installation hardware, and a 6" three-axis magnetic bubble level. This mount also includes a 10' High Speed HDMI with Ethernet cable. The HDMI cable allows the use of home entertainment networking, audio return, 3D playback and delivers the sharpest, richest viewing and listening experience possible.

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Hoover SteamVac Carpet Cleaner with Clean Surge, F5914-900

2011-04-19T22:25:00.000-07:00

Product Description

Amazon.com

This powerful home steam vacuum saves you the expense and hassle of having to rent a steam cleaner to keep rugs, upholstery, and bare floors (other than hardwoods) looking like new. The powerful 12-amp motor combined with five spinning brushes that operate at either high or low speed lift the dirt and grime out of carpets. By pulling on the trigger in the comfortable upright handle, this deep cleaner releases the included carpet/upholstery cleaner and hot tap water.

For more stubborn stains or for high-traffic areas, this SteamVac also has a Clean Surge feature, which sends an extra blast of cleaning solution into the stain by simply pressing a button on the handle. When cleaning is complete, release the trigger and the SteamVac forces hot air into the cleaning path so you can do a few dry strokes over the stain.

This deep cleaner has two separate water tanks to keep clean water apart from dirty water. The top tank holds the detergent and one gallon of hot water and automatically mixes the two so you don’t need to get your hands wet. The lower tank holds the dirty solution picked up from the carpet and unlatches to easily pour out into a sink without spilling.

For cleaning stairs or upholstery, this deep cleaner has a long 8-foot hose and a special stair/upholstery nozzle to scrub out spots. Other features of this deep cleaner include a brush indicator, which informs you that the brushes are spinning; an on/off foot pedal; a handle release pedal; and a 27-inch wraparound cord. The Hoover SteamVac is covered by a full one-year warranty.

Hoover SteamVac Features

• SpinScrub - multi-directional brushes surround carpet fibers, to remove dirt at every angle

• 3-Speed Brushroll Control - High for normal cleaning, low for gentle cleaning, off for spill pick-up

• Tool Mode - stops scrubbing brushes to protect hard flooring

• Removable Brushes - pop out for easy rinsing

• Clean Surge Control - fingertip control applies extra detergent to stains and heavy traffic areas

• Heated Drying - applies heat to floor to speed drying time

• 8' Stretch Hose - provides instant extended reach

• Dual Tanks - easy-to-fill tanks keep cleaning solution and dirty water separate

• No Belts - never change or replace or break a belt

• Powerful 12-amp Motor - has all the power needed to get floors truly clean

• Carpet/Upholstery Detergent - Includes one 16 oz bottle of powerful cleaning detergent

• Limited one-year warranty

• On Board Tools: SpinScrub Powered Hand Tool puts hard-to-reach cleaning in the palm of your hand: perfect for stairs, upholstery and stains

A clear nozzle allows you to see how well the SteamVac is cleaning your carpets

The SpinScrub brushes are easily removable and can be rinsed to maintain performance

The included detailer tool is great for cleaning stairs or tough stains

Product Description

SteamVac features SpinScrub-- the Multiple Brush System with 5 self-adjusting brushes for outstanding cleaning performance

Bucks County Tomato 30 Seeds - Best Tomato 1999

2011-01-26T06:30:00.000-08:00

Product Description

TOMATO: Tomatoes are rich in vitamins and antioxidants, and the seeds are high in fiber. The green parts are mildly poisonous, which is not surprising, as tomatoes are closely related to both nightshade and tobacco. The tomato was originally believed to be poisonous when introduced into Europe, and was used solely as an ornamental plant during the 16th and 17th centuries. The first traces of its use as a food date back to the first half of the 18th century. Tomatoes are now a tasty ingredient in many dishes, and are used fresh, canned, stewed or even sun-dried.

Bucks County Tomato: Indeterminate - 74 days - Organic Gardening testers voted this the best new tomato for 1999! A hybrid of the heirloom variety 'Red Brandywine' with improved disease resistance and productivity. Delicious, deep red, 8 ounce, oblate-shaped fruits grow on vigorous, indeterminate plants.

How to grow tulip

2010-09-14T06:44:00.000-07:00

By an eHow Contributor

I want to do this! What's This? ..

One of the most popular springtime flowers is the tulip. Tulips are easy to grow. You only need to have a bit of space to plant the bulbs in the fall. Then just wait for those bulbs to grow into bright, sunny flowers that herald the coming of spring.

.Difficulty: Easy

Instructions.

Things You'll Need:

Tulip bulbs

Shovel or spade

Fertilizer

1Plan your tulip garden in the fall. Late October or early November is the best time to plant tulip bulbs. Stagger tulip bulbs that are early bloomers with mid-season and late bloomers to prolong the blooms in your tulip garden.

2Replace bulbs that are over three years old. Fertilize the tulip bed if you aren't digging up any old bulbs.

3Dig a new tulip bed in a sunny location about a foot deep. Use a shovel or spade or tiller to turn the ground. Work fertilizer into the soil.

4Plant the tulip bulbs about one to two inches below the ground. Make sure the root portion of the bulb is pointing down. Space the tulips about six inches apart.

5Put mulch over the tulip bulbs if you live in a cold climate. If you live in a more moderate climate you can skip this step. Remember to remove the mulch as soon as the ground begins to warm in the spring.

6 Cut the tulips for indoor use if you like. Remove tulip heads from the plants as soon as they begin to fade. Leave the green stems alone for a while because they are feeding the bulb so it can grow and bloom again next year. Once the foliage dies, you can cut it back as well.

How to Grow Garlic

2010-07-04T19:39:00.000-07:00

Instructions.
Things You'll Need:

•Bypass Pruners

•Compost Makers

•Fertilizers

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Mulch

•Plants

•Seeds

•Shovels

•Seeds

•Plants

•Shovels

Step 1Buy garlic bulbs at the nursery in late fall or early winter (it's unlikely you'll find started seedlings). You'll plant cloves directly in the ground about six weeks before the soil freezes. In mild climates, plant in January or February for harvesting in late summer or early fall.

Step 2Choose a garden site that gets full sun. Though garlic will grow in soil with any pH from 5.0 to 8.0, it does best in the slightly acid range (6.2 to 6.8).

Step 3Dig to a depth of 8 to 12 inches, and amend the soil with plenty of compost to ensure the ideal combination of fertility, good drainage and moisture retention.

Step 4Remove all traces of weeds; they'll easily win out over garlic's grasslike foliage.

Step 5Plant only the largest cloves from the bulb, and discard any that are pitted or tinged blue-green - both are signs of mold.

Step 6Set unpeeled cloves, pointy end up, 2 inches deep and 5 inches apart. For giant "elephant" garlic, increase the depth to 3 inches and the spacing to 10.

Step 7Top-dress the plants with compost, and mulch to retain moisture and deter weeds. Mulch again after the ground freezes to protect plants from the cold.

Step 8Remove the mulch in spring so the sun can warm the soil, then add a fresh layer when new growth begins. To ensure large bulbs, cut back any flower stalks that develop, and spray young plants with compost tea (see "How to Make Compost Tea") once or twice during the spring.

Step 9Provide an inch of water a week until the foliage turns yellow or falls over - indications that bulbs are nearing maturity.

Step 10Clip garlic leaves to use any time, but remove no more than 1/4 of a plant's top growth or you'll reduce bulb size.

Step 11Begin harvesting bulbs when about 3/4 of the tops are yellow

How to Grow Common Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus)

2010-03-21T21:34:00.000-07:00

Instructions.

Things You'll Need:

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Plants

•Seeds

•Watering Cans

•Seeds

•Plants

Step 1Check out nurseries for sunflower seedlings, but these are among the easiest of plants to start from seed.

Step 2Plant seedlings after all danger of frost has passed in your region. Space according to label directions, anywhere from 6 inches to 3 feet.

Step 3Plant seeds 4-6 inches apart after all danger of frost has passed, covering with 1/2 inch soil.

Step 4Water just enough to keep soil moist. Sunflowers don't need much water or fertilizer.

Step 5Trim spent blooms to encourage more flowers.

Step 6Pull out and discard plants in fall, once frost kills them.

.

How to Grow Lavender!

2010-03-17T21:38:00.000-07:00

By KCout,

Grow Lavender!Lavender is known the world over for its healing properties, glorious color and enchanting perfume, but did you know that it is very to grow? Lavender is grown all over the world and the looser and less nutritious the soil the better! There are literally hundreds of varieties and the color isn't always...well lavender! Lavender is nicknamed the 'first aid in a bottle' oil. Lavender produces an essential oil that has an inherent antibiotic action. It is also an astringent and moisturizer to skin. It alleviates aches, pains, and swelling from arthritis to injury to headache. Lavender also alleviates motion sickness. Learn how to grow this wonderful flowe

Instructions.

Step 1 Picking your plants!

The Lavender plants you pick depend on your climate. English Lavender, (Lavandula angustifolia), is the most hardy plant and grown the most widely. It is easy to mix in a perennial bed. This plant will endure subzero winters, but dislikes humid heat. If you live in a humid climate look for a LavanDIN instead of lavender. "Grosso and Provence" are the best lavandins. You can even chose your hue of lavender, but unless you get shoots from a "mother" plant, you will not have a consistent color or flower.

Step 2 Picking your spot to plant!

The most important factor about Lavender is drainage. Soggy areas should definitely be avoided. Incorporate organic matter if necessary to make a loose soil for easy drainage.

Lavender prefers a sloping bed in a sunny spot. A solution to that would be to heap soil in a pile about 12 to 18 inches high before planting the lavender. If your soil is mostly clay soil, dig out your hole and mix the clay with sand. Lavender plants cannot compete with aggressive weeds, so ensure your chosen spot is weed free. This is most important if you are planting a hedge of lavender, as weeding after they are planted can be a huge hassle. Weeding often becomes such a chore that Lavenders are overrun and eventually dies in a neglected hedge.

Step 3 Planting:

When planting lavender place the plants at least 2 feet apart. Start with 4-inch-pot sized plants. Leave plenty of room between plants for air circulation. If planting in pots, make sure to repot every spring into a larger container with fresh soil to allow the plant to continue to mature. A good, coarse, sterile potting soil with organic fertilizers works best.

Step 4 Watering:

Lavender does not like overhead sprinkler and could rot if they get too much water. Use a drip irrigation and water only when the bed is dry to a depth of 3 or 4 inches. While Lavender is extremely drought resistant once established, it grows larger and produces more blooms with regular watering. It is important to let the plant dry out a bit before soaking it again. In humid areas, this can be difficult and the excess moisture often causes death by rotting. Do not mulch lavender! It holds too m uch moisture.

Step 5 Fertilizer:

Wait about two years to fertilize the plants and then use an organic product such as fish emulsion. Feed the plants in spring when they start growing and again after harvesting in late summer. If you grow plants as annuals, you don't have to feed them at all.

Step 6 Pruning and Harvesting:

It takes about three years for Lavender to reach full size. Plants should be pruned every year immediately after bloom. Pruning should not be confused with harvesting. Pruning is necessary to extend the life of the plant because lavender gets very woody if not pruned. Lavender flower wand stems are a bright green and Lavender leaves are gray. Cut back not only the flower stem, but also about a third of the gray-leaved stems as well. Avoid pruning back so far that only woody stems with no leaves are showing as it may die.

Harvest the flowers according to end use. For a fresh bouquet pick when the flowers are in full bloom and scent. For dried bundles the stem must be harvested before the florets completely open. If you wait until the flower is open it will fall apart when they are dried. Take a handful of stems and cut them off at the base of the plant and then wrap rubber bands around them. To dry them hang them upside down. Drying takes about two weeks, but keep good circulation around your bundles to avoid them falling part or rotting. Harvesting the lavender for oil must be done at the peak of the day's heat. Essential oil can be extracted by steam distillation from the fresh flowers

How to grow watermelons from seed

2010-03-17T07:17:00.000-07:00

Growing watermelons requires lots of space, lots of sun, lots of water and lots of nutrients.

They are greedy, rambling vines, like all plants in the cucurbiteae family (e.g. zucchini, squash, pumpkin, cucumbers...)

Watermelons are not particularly difficult to grow, but because they are so demanding I don't consider watermelons a good plant for beginner gardeners. (You can get lucky if you live in optimum conditions).

I also don't consider them a good plant for anyone with restricted space, water, or average soils.

You need to put a lot into a watermelon, and what you get out in terms of nutrition is not a lot... So from a permaculture point of view watermelons wouldn't be the very first thing to worry about...

But I get too many questions about growing watermelons. They are very popular. So I give in...

How to grow watermelons

Where and when can you grow watermelons?

In the true tropics the dry season (winter) is the best watermelon growing season.

Watermelons do not cope well with extreme heat or the humid, soggy conditions of our wet season/summer. Fungal diseases and bugs will wipe them out in no time.

If you live in a cooler climate, then summer is the time to grow watermelons.

You do need at least three months of reliably hot, sunny weather to grow and ripen a watermelon. During that time your average daily maximum temperature should be at least about 20-25°C or 70-80F. Warmer is even better.

(There are different watermelon varieties, so if you are at the low end of that, look for a faster maturing variety.)

Grow watermelons in full sun. You also need an abundant supply of water and nutrients (good soil).

And you need space. As I said, a rambling vine. They like to go wandering and smother everything around them.

Growing watermelons from seed

Watermelons are grown from seed. You may be tempted to use seed out of a melon you bought, but don't waste your time. It is almost guaranteed to be a hybrid.

Hybrid varieties are very special crosses that don't grow true to type. (You would end up growing what we call pig melons. A melon variety that's only good for feeding to the pigs...)

Buy your seed, and if possible buy an open pollinated heirloom variety. Because then you CAN use your own seed next year. The open pollinated varieties are also hardier.

You will find a lot more interesting varieties amongst the heirlooms then you cn find in the standard collection of you local gardening centre.

Start your watermelon seeds in the ground, right where they are supposed to grow. The soil should be at least 18°C for them to germinate.

Unless you have an extremely short growing season, do NOT start your watermelon seed in a pot or punnet. Do NOT buy watermelon seedlings from a nursery.

Watermelon seed germinates easily and quickly, within a few days. Watermelon plants outgrow the seedling stage very quickly, and they don't like transplanting. You don't save much time and you end up with a weaker plant.

Save yourself this totally needless extra work and stick your seeds in the ground, about two cm or an inch deep.

(If you have a long growing season, you may want to do several plantings, a few weeks apart.)

Watermelons need deep, rich, friable soils. To grow watermelons it helps to raise the soil (make mounds or ridges). Raising the soil has several advantages:

A mound or ridge is free draining (melons don't like wet feet). If you have heavy clay soil, definitely raise the bed.

Mounds are also good if the soil is as poor as mine. I just make a mound of good soil with lots of compost in it to grow watermelons. Sometimes I plant them in what's left over from a compost pile after I used most of the compost.

If you like growing things in neat rows, or if you want to plant a large area, grow watermelons on ridges, like the commercial growers do.

Rows should be about 2 m (6 ft) apart and the plants spaced at 30 cm/a foot apart. (Sow twice as many as you want, and keep the stronger ones.)

I prefer growing watermelons in clumps on a mound, in several different locations in the garden. (Mixing things up helps keeping pests and diseases at bay.) If you want several hills together, keep them about 2 m apart.

The mound should be about one metre square and a foot high. Then I plant about ten seeds in it, in three groups of three to four seeds each. The groups are spaced about a foot apart (30 cm).

After a few weeks I can see which watermelon plants grow the strongest, and I snip off the weaker ones, leaving only one seedling in each group. (Don't pull them up, cut them off. Or you disturb the roots of the others.)

If you have a very small garden but absolutely have to have watermelons, you can try growing them on a trellis. Really.

You need a very strong trellis, you need to train them up the trellis as they aren't climbers, and you need to support the developing fruit so the trellis holds the weight, not the plant.

It is a lot of work but it can be done...

Growing watermelon plants

Slugs and other seedling chomping critters like mulch and they like watermelons. Wait until the watermelons have outgrown the most vulnerable stage (where a slug can demolish them within minutes). Then mulch the area well.

Watermelons have very shallow roots and they need lots of moisture. The soil should never dry out, and mulch helps with that.

Mulch also keeps weeds down. Weeding could disturb the shallow roots, so it's better to not let them grow to start with.

Watermelons are VERY hungry plants. If your mulch is something like compost or aged animal manures, all the better. (Like all cucurbits, watermelons can handle fairly raw compost and manures.)

Otherwise, feed your watermelons regularly with something like pelleted chook manure or another organic fertiliser. (Ideally you should use a high nitrogen fertiliser in the early stages, but cut back on nitrogen and give them lots of potassium once they flower and fruit.)

When the vines are about two metres long, pinch out the tips. It encourages branching.

As your watermelon vines grow bigger they will start trying to take over more space. If they start to smother other things you can remind them about sticking to their area by gently moving the tips of the vines, so they grow into the right direction.

Watermelon flowering and fruiting

Watermelons grow male and female flowers on the same vine.

The smaller male flowers appear first. The female flowers are much larger (see the photo) and you can't miss them.

If you don't see any it could have several reasons: too hot, too cold, not enough water, not enough nutrients... In any way, it means the watermelon plant isn't happy.

If the plant does produce female flowers but the little fruit at the base of it shrivels up and dies, then the flowers are not getting pollinated.

Watermelon flowers are insect pollinated. If you suspect the insects aren't doing their job, you can do it yourself, just to be sure.

Hand pollination is best done early in the morning. Pull off a few male flowers and remove the flower petals. Then brush the pollen laden stamen against the stigma in the centre of the female flower, so the pollen sticks to it. Easy.

The first few female flowers on each branch will give you the best fruit.

To grow them as large as possible you can pinch out the tip of the branch after a couple of fruits have set (are starting to swell up).

But this isn't an essential step. You can also just let them go...

Harvesting watermelons

Telling when a watermelon is ripe is an art. You will get better at it with practice.

The first sign to look for is the curly tendril at the stem. Once it is dry, as in, totally dry not just starting to dry off, once it is totally dry, it may be ready...

Another sign is the light coloured patch on the bottom of the fruit. It is initially greenish, but as the melon ripens the green tinge diappears and it becomes yellowish. The skin overall becomes duller and tougher.

But the most popular way to tell if they are ripe is the sound. Knock them with your knuckles and listen for a dull, hollow sound. The unripe melons have a higher pitched sound. Keep thumping lots of them and comparing until you can tell the difference. Eventually you'll have to take a chance on one...

The only way to get good at this is to grow and harvest lots of watermelons!

Problems when growing watermelons

The biggest watermelon pest are the leaf eating beetles (they damage the flowers, too) like spotted and striped cucumber beetles, pumpkin beetles with or without dots, whatever you want to call them.

Those orange things...

They all look similar and all do the same: chomp away on your watermelon plants...

However, if they become a real problem it is mainly a sign that your watermelons are stressed.

A healthy watermelon in a balanced environment and in good soil should not attract too many beetles. Also, a watermelon should grow fast enough to cope with a few beetles.

The other main problem with growing watermelons is mildew, a fungus that makes the leaves look as if they were coated with white powder. The fungus thrives in damp, humid conditions.

The best you can do is to avoid getting the leaves wet. If you can't avoid overhead watering, do it first thing in the morning so they dry quickly. Never wet the leaves in the afternoon or evening.

In the tropics you probably won't be able to control the beetles or the mildew, once the build up for the wet season starts. And it isn't worth it anyway... The oppressive heat and the humidity just aren't good conditions for growing watermelons. Grow something that likes humditiy and wait for the next dry season to grow watermelons again.

How to Grow Avocado

2010-03-08T18:10:00.000-08:00

Instructions.
Things You'll Need:

•avocado seed

•glass

•toothpicks

•water

•sunlight

Step 1Remove an avocado seed from an avocado and wash off the remaining avocado fruit using room temperature water.

Step 2Fill a water glass with room temperature water until the water comes to within an inch of the rim of the glass.

Step 3Hold the avocado with the pointy side up and poke four toothpicks into the middle of the avocado. Space the toothpicks out evenly around the center of the avocado seed. Insert each toothpick approximately ¼ to ½ inch into the avocado seed. When you look down at the avocado seed, it should resemble a plus sign, with a toothpicks sticking out in four directions.

Step 4Place the avocado seed wide side down, and pointy side up, into the water glass. The toothpicks should rest on the rim of the glass, so just the bottom of the avocado seed is submerged in water.

Step 5Place the avocado seed on a window sill in direct light indoors. Change the water every couple weeks and do not let it become murky or stagnant.

Step 6Watch your avocado seed grow into a tree. The roots should sprout within two to five weeks. Don't be alarmed when the avocado seed splits, as that this is normal.

Step 7Transplant your avocado tree into soil when it is several inches tall and has leaves. Avocado trees take over a decade before they grow avocados, and indoor plants may never grow flower or grow ripe fruit. However, it is fun to watch avocado trees grow from seed and they make a nice indoors plant.

How to grow orchids

2010-03-07T16:54:00.000-08:00

By eHow Contributing Writer

An orchid requires more attention than some houseplants, but you can grow these beautiful flowers if you can set up the proper environment to keep them healthy. Be prepared to invest time to care for this exotic addition to your home.

.Difficulty: ModerateInstructions.

Things You'll Need:

•Orchid plant

•Fertilizer for flowering tropical plants

•Potting mix with mulch

Step 1Place your orchid in a location that receives natural sunlight. The location shouldn't be too hot. If you put the plant in a window and the direct sunlight is too hot, particularly during the summer, move the orchid to a nearby table or counter where it can receive indirect light.

Step 2Purchase a plant light. If your environment does not offer enough natural lighting to grow an orchid, ask your local plant retailer to suggest an artifical light source.

Step 3Keep the orchid watered. An orchid is a tropical plant and its natural environment would be a moist area with humidity. Don't overwater the orchid or you'll damage it. Water the orchid sparingly every few days to keep it moist without drowning the roots. If you cannot provide humidity for your orchid, use a plant mister every day.

Step 4Pot your orchid in a small container. The delicate roots need the support of a smaller pot to thrive and grow. Some orchids need repotting annually, while others thrive for years in the same pot. Keep your orchid potted in a potting mix of mulch for tropical plants. If your orchid is thriving, leave it alone.

Step 5Fertilize your orchid with a plant food made specifically for orchids or tropical flowering plants. Ask your plant nursery specialist for suggestions based on where you live.

How to Grow Mushroom.

2010-03-03T22:49:00.000-08:00

Some Mushroom Growing Basics for Beginners

If you are completely new to mushroom growing, I recommend that you skim through a copy of Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms by Paul Stamets. Many libraries have the 2nd Edition, or you can order the expanded 3rd Edition through my link to Amazon.com (click on the title). Paul's book will give you a good overview of growing mushrooms of all kinds. It has plenty of pictures, and there are descriptions of most of the mushroom species that can be reliably cultivated. It is also a valuable reference volume, and I use it regularly. (Paul's earlier book with J.S. Chilton, The Mushroom Cultivator, is also a good overview, focusing more on Agaricus and other compost-grown species.) Don't be put off by all the talk about contamination and sterile procedure, though--that's where the peroxide method comes in!

As Paul's books explain, the process of growing mushrooms can be divided roughly into four steps:

1) Acquiring and maintaining a culture of mushroom tissue (called mycelium) of the mushroom strain you want. (A tissue culture is somewhat like a cutting of a plant. Starting with a tissue culture assures that you have a mushroom strain genetically identical to the one you want. Some growers start with spores, which are more like seeds. Spores may or may not give you a mushroom strain with the fruiting properties of the parent. Since spores cannot be grown in the presence of hydrogen peroxide, I always work with a tissue culture of mycelium. Tissue cultures--also called agar cultures or test tube cultures--of various species of mushroom can be purchased from commercial suppliers or they can be started from fresh mushrooms).

2) Using a bit of the tissue culture to begin some spawn (a kind of mushroom starter), which is usually grown on a small quantity of sterilized grain or sawdust.

3) Using the spawn to introduce mushroom mycelium into an organic material (substrate) chosen to support the formation of mushrooms.

4) Getting the actual mushrooms to form and grow once the substrate has been completely colonized by mushroom mycelium.

Starting with a kit

If you buy a mushroom kit, you are generally starting at step four. The commercial mushroom grower has already completed the earlier steps for you, and provided you with the mushroom culture ready to form mushrooms. You provide a proper environment, usually cool and moist. Getting mushrooms to form can be easy or hard, depending on the mushroom strain you are growing. Oyster-style mushrooms of the Pleurotus and Hypsizygus families are among the easiest to fruit. Lions Mane (Hericium erinaceus) is also quite easy. Maitake (Grifola frondosa) and Morels (Morachella species) are among the most difficult to get to form mushrooms. Shiitake (Lentinula edodes) falls somewhere in the middle. Button mushrooms are easy if you can keep the temperature steady around 65 degrees F.

Starting with purchased spawn

It is also possible to start at step three, by purchasing the "starter" (spawn) from a supplier and using that to introduce the growing fungus into an organic material that you have prepared yourself. There are a variety of possible substrates: straw, compost, logs, wood chips, and sawdust are common ones, but people have also used things like newspaper, cardboard, sterilized grain, coffee grounds, etc. depending on the mushroom species they want to grow.

Kinds of mushrooms and the substrates they prefer

In general, there are two broad classes of cultivated mushrooms: those that prefer to grow on compost, and those that prefer to grow on woody material. The common button mushroom and other Agaricus species fall into the first class, growing readily on compost, but they will also grow on straw. Oyster mushrooms, shiitake, reishi, maitake, and Lions Mane, all prefer woody materials such as sawdust, wood chips, or sometimes straw.

Compost

Each organic material requires a different procedure to render it free of competing organisms. Compost is the most time-consuming material to prepare, requiring a couple of weeks to mature. It needs to be allowed to heat to a temperature that neutralizes harmful species, without letting it get so hot that it kills beneficial microbes. The compost is not allowed to go completely through its natural cycle. Instead it is harvested somewhat early, when it is full of white actinomycetes bacteria that provide the nutrients that mushrooms love. The grower cools the compost, adds some gypsum (calcium sulfate) and mixes in the mushroom spawn.

Woody materials

Woody materials and straw can be prepared much more quickly than compost. Traditionally, these materials required a heat treatment, such as pressure sterilization, steam pasteurization, or hot water steeping, to eliminate competing organisms. The peroxide method has now added ways to prepare some substrates without heating. It can also prevent later contamination by airborne molds and bacteria, so using a material that is compatible with hydrogen peroxide addition can save a lot of trouble. For wood-decomposing mushrooms, wood pellet fuel, which disintegrates into sawdust when treated with boiling water, works very well in this regard, and so does wheat straw.

Getting Mushrooms to Form

The compost-loving species require a different procedure from the wood-loving mushrooms when it comes time to get the mushrooms to form. The compost-lovers usually need to have a soil-like layer called "casing," applied to the top of the culture, once the mushroom tissue has fully colonized the compost. The soil-like layer provides a reservoir of moisture, and it creates a low-nutrient zone (compared to the compost), signaling the mushroom tissue to start forming the fruiting bodies. The tiny mushroom buttons then begin to form in the casing layer. The grower keeps the casing moist by lightly watering it as the mushrooms enlarge.

With wood-loving species, the procedure for getting mushrooms to form varies a bit from one species to another, but it usually involves a shift in environmental conditions such as a drop in temperature, an increase in air circulation, and/or an increase in light levels.

The whole nine yards?

Once you have tried growing mushrooms from a kit and from spawn you've purchased, you will have a better idea whether you want to get involved in keeping agar cultures and growing your own spawn. These procedures require somewhat more commitment and attention to detail. Before the invention of the peroxide technique, it was generally only possible to keep agar cultures and grow spawn if you constructed a sterile work space, such as a glove box at the very least. With peroxide, it becomes possible to perform these steps in an ordinary kitchen, and grow the cultures just about anywhere that an appropriate temperature and light level can be provided. You still need to learn some basic "sterile technique"--simple procedures for handling cultures to keep them pure. But you won't need a sterile facility or a spotless house.

How to Grow Leeks

2010-02-25T16:19:00.000-08:00

Instructions.
Things You'll Need:

•Bypass Pruners

•Compost Makers

•Fertilizers

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Mulch

•Plants

•Seeds

•Plants

Step 1Choose a site that gets full sun and has well-drained soil with a pH of 6.2 to 7.0 (see "How to Have Your Soil Tested," under Related eHows). Work in plenty of compost and manure.

Step 2Buy started leek plants at your local nursery for planting about the time of the last spring frost. Otherwise, start seeds indoors at least 10 weeks before the average frost-free date.

Step 3Harden off seedlings when they're about the thickness of a pencil, then transplant them to the garden.

Step 4Set seedlings 4 to 8 inches apart, depending on the variety (check the directions on the seed packet or plant label). To encourage long, thin stems, plant leeks closer together; for thicker stems, set them farther apart.

Step 5Use a dibble (a planting tool that looks like a fat, pointed stick with a T-shaped handle) or the end of a rake handle to make a hole that's just deep enough to leave only the top inch of the transplant exposed. Set the transplant into the hole and fill it loosely with soil.

Step 6Make sure the plants get at least an inch of water a week; otherwise the stems will toughen. Mulch to conserve moisture, and side-dress with manure tea once a month.

Step 7Begin harvesting leeks as soon as they're big enough to use. Young, tender ones are good raw; once they reach scallion-size, they're better cooked.

How to Grow Lemon Trees

2010-02-15T21:32:00.000-08:00

Instructions.
Things You'll Need:

•Mulch

•Plants

•Fertilizers

•Compost Makers

•Pruning Shears

•Shovels

Step 1Purchase a lemon variety adapted to your area. Most lemon trees are very sensitive to frost and grow best where winters are mild.

Step 2Plant the tree in a warm, sunny area where the soil drains well. Planting next to a house or under an eave will provide some frost protection.

Step 3Water the tree deeply once every 7 to 10 days in midsummer (newly planted trees may need more frequent watering until established). Water less often if it rains or if the weather is cool.

Step 4Apply 2 to 3 inches of organic matter under the canopy of the tree to conserve moisture.

Step 5Fertilize every four to six weeks from February to August.

Step 6Prune trees every year or two to keep them within bounds and easy to pick. Cut back new growth by one-fourth to one-third.

Step 7Protect trees from frost if temperatures are forecast to drop below 30 degrees F.

Step 8Harvest lemons when fruit reaches full size and color. Timing will vary by variety and growing area.

How to Grow Ginger

2010-02-12T22:43:00.000-08:00

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

•Bypass Pruners

•Compost Makers

•Fertilizers

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Planting Containers

•Potting Soil

•Ginger Roots

Growing Ginger in a Container

Step

1Buy fresh ginger roots at a grocery store or an Asian market. Look for fat tubers with numerous buds.

Step

2Plant ginger in spring when you can supply warm enough temperatures, whether indoors or out. The dormant tubers will sprout only when the mercury hits 75 to 85 degrees F.

Step

3Use a container that's about 14 inches across and 12 inches deep and has excellent drainage. This size will hold three average-size tubers comfortably.

Step

4Fill the container with potting soil enriched with plenty of compost.

Step

5Soak the tubers in warm water overnight, then set them in the pot just below the soil surface, spacing them evenly, with the buds facing up.

Step

6Set the container in light shade, indoors or out, depending on the temperature.

Step

7Water lightly at first, then more heavily when growth starts. Keep plants dry in winter, when they're dormant.

Step

8Move plants outside only when the temperatures have reached 50 degrees F. In cooler weather, growth can be stunted.

Step

9Shield plants from high winds, and move them indoors at the first sign of cool temperatures.

Step

10Expect plants to reach maturity, and a height of 2 to 4 feet, in 10 months to a year.

Step

11Dig up new, young sprouts that appear in front of the main plants (they form their own tubers), use what you need, and freeze or replant the rest.

Step

12Clip young, tender stems anytime.

Growing Ginger Outdoors in USDA Zone 10

Step

1Buy fresh ginger roots at a grocery store or an Asian market. Look for fat tubers with numerous buds.

Step

2Choose a lightly shaded site with rich, moist but well-drained soil. Work in plenty of compost to ensure the right combination.

Step

3Plant ginger in spring when temperatures are 75 to 85 degrees F. Soak the tubers in warm water overnight, then set them just under the soil surface with the buds facing up.

Step

4Water lightly at first, then more heavily when growth starts.

Step

5Shield plants from high winds, and cover them if temperatures dip lower than normal.

Step

6Expect plants to reach maturity, and a height of 2 to 4 feet, in 10 months to a year.

Step

7Dig up new, young sprouts that appear in front of the main plants (they form their own tubers), use what you need, and freeze or replant the rest.

Step

8Clip young, tender stems anytime.

How to Grow Spinach

2010-02-08T22:10:00.000-08:00

How to Grow Spinach

Contributor By eHow Contributing Writer

Instructions.

Things You'll Need:

•Bypass Pruners

•Compost Makers

•Fertilizers

•Fish Emulsions

•Floating Row Covers

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Mulch

•Plants

•Shovels

•Spinach Seeds

•Limes

•Plants

•Shovels

•Limes

Step 1 Choose a site that gets full sun in cool weather and partial shade in warmer temperatures. Soil should be light, fertile and moisture-retentive, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.

Step 2 Dig in plenty of well-cured manure to ensure the right soil conditions and to provide the nitrogen necessary for good leaf production.

Step 3 Sow spinach seeds directly into the garden as soon as the ground can be worked, normally anywhere from four to eight weeks before the last expected frost. (Because spinach resents transplanting and seeds germinate well in temperatures as low as 50 degrees F, there's no advantage to buying plants or to starting seed indoors.)

Step 4 Plant seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in wide rows. For a continuous harvest, sow every two weeks until daytime temperatures start to average 75 degrees F.

Step 5 Begin sowing fall crops in mid-August in cool climates, later in warm ones.

Step 6 Thin seedlings to 6 inches apart when the plants are 4 inches tall. Be ruthless; crowded plants are more likely to bolt (go to seed prematurely), and you can use the cuts in salads.

Step 7 Keep the soil moist, and feed plants manure tea or fish emulsion every 10 days until they're 6 inches tall (see "How to Make Manure Tea").

Step 8 Mulch established plants to conserve moisture and deter weeds, and cover the area with floating row covers to discourage insects.

Step 9 Cut spinach leaves as you need them from the outside of the plant, or harvest entire plants when they reach maturity and before they begin to flower. (If you see buds starting to form at the center, cut the whole plant immediately.)

How to Grow Carrots

2010-02-07T20:55:00.000-08:00

Instructions.Things
You'll Need:

•Carrot Seeds

•Compost Makers

•Fertilizers

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Mulch

•Planting Containers

•Shovels

•Shovels
Step 1
Choose a site that gets full sun (carrots will tolerate light shade but won't do as well). Soil should be light, with a pH of 5.8 to 6.8 (see "How to Have Your Soil Tested").

Step 2
Dig to a depth of at least 12 inches, and remove all traces of rocks and other debris - even a small twig could injure a carrot's growing tip, stunting the root or making it fork.

Step 3
Add plenty of organic matter; it will lighten heavy soils and increase the moisture retention of sandy ones. Carrots grow sweeter and less fibrous in soil that remains moist.

Step 4
Sow carrot seeds directly about two to three weeks before the last expected frost in cool regions; in warm climates, you can plant in fall, winter or spring. (Like most root crops, carrots rarely appear as started plants in nurseries.)

Step 5
Speed germination, which can take 10 days or more, by soaking seeds in water for 6 hours before you plant them.

Step 6

Make early sowings shallow to capture warmth from the sun; sprinkle the seeds on the soil surface, tamp them gently and cover them with a thin layer of finely sifted compost. If planting later, when the soil has warmed up, plant seeds between 1/4 and 1/2 inch deep.

Step 7

Thin seedlings before the tops become entwined: Either clip off the greens with scissors, or pull the roots very gently from the ground so you don't disturb the remaining plants. Allow 3 to 4 inches between carrots, depending on the variety (check the seed packet for details).

Step 8

Spray young plants once with compost tea (see "How to Make Compost Tea") to ensure good growth, and mulch with compost to deter weeds and retain moisture. Young plants need at least an inch of water a week, but cut back on watering as they near maturity (check the seed packet for timing).

Step 9

Begin harvesting carrots when they've turned deep orange.

How to Grow Asparagus

2010-01-31T01:17:00.000-08:00

How to Grow Asparagus.

By eHow Contributing Writer

Instructions.Things You'll Need:

•Compost Makers

•Fertilizers

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Mulch

•Plants

•Shovels

•Plants

•Shovels

Step 1 Choose a site where your plants won't be disturbed - and where you and they can happily coexist for 10 to 15 years.

Step 2 Grow asparagus in partial or full sun (it performs best in full sun) in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0, amended with plenty of organic matter that is rich in potassium and phosphorus.

Step 3 Buy asparagus crowns (established root systems with dormant top growth) at your nursery or through a catalog. In cool regions, plant them in early spring when the soil temperature has reached about 50 degrees F. In warm regions, plant in late winter.

Step 4 Make a 7-inch-deep, V-shaped furrow (or more, depending on how many crowns you're planting) and in each one spread a handful of wood ashes, a handful of bonemeal, and an inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure.

Step 5 Soak the crowns in compost tea for 10 minutes or so and lay them on their sides on top of the organic matter, 12 to 16 inches apart, in rows 4 feet apart. (See "How to Make Compost Tea.")

Step 6 Fill in the furrows gradually as shoots emerge, taking care not to cover any foliage; eventually, the furrow will be level with the soil surface. Don't bother spreading out the roots; they'll find their way down.

Step 7 Weed diligently and mulch heavily with chopped leaves or straw after you've filled in the furrows.

Step 8 Side-dress plants with a balanced organic fertilizer in late summer, and top the bed in organic mulch in the fall.

Step 9 Give new plantings one to two inches of water a week; after that, water only when rainfall is scant.

Step 10 Refrain from harvesting any spears during your plants' first year in your garden. Each spear needs to "fern out" so that the roots can grow stronger and more productive. The second year you can pick a few that reach about the size of your index finger. The third year, pick finger-size spears for two to four weeks in the spring. In subsequent years, take all the finger-size spears you want for six to eight weeks, or until the spears that come up are thin and spindly.

How to Grow Eggplant from Seeds

2010-01-27T19:55:00.000-08:00

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

Eggplant seeds

Planting pot

Fertilizer

Soil

Gardening tools

Sunlight, heater, heating mat

Warm environment

Patience

Step 1 Eggplant blossomPlant seeds 6-8 weeks indoors before transplanting. The best time to start is in the first week of April.

Step 2 They are very slow to germinate. Plant several seeds in a pot, 1/2" deep. Keep them warm by using a seedling warmer on the bottom of the soil, or put them near a heater, or in a sunny spot near a window in your house. Keep in mind, but don't be discouraged that only 60-65% of the seeds you plant will germinate; they are very sensitive to temperature and don't grow outside the range of 75-90 degrees F.

Step 3 Young plants need warmth to grow, place them in a warm location with bright light. A week prior planting outside, move the plants to a cool area and feed them less water; cut off about 1/4 the amount you used.

Step 4 If you plant seeds in April, germination will complete in mid to late June. Remove only the strongest seedling. Discard the weak ones; they die soon anyway after transplant, so don't think they are wasted.

Step 5 In mid to late June when weather is consistently fair and warm, transplant outdoors to a hot and bright location, where it is also wind-proofed.

Step 6 Eggplants prefer loose, sandy soil with organic materials (like peat moss) and compost. Plants need heavy watering and heavy fertilizing. Surround each plant with a 2" mulch to help retain moisture around roots. Space each young plant 24 inches apart and spread generously of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer around roots before covering the planting holes. Fertilize every three weeks by sprinkling a handful of granular on the ground around each plant. Mature plants may need staking to help them stand especially when they have fruits.

Step 7 Fruits maturingIf temperature is under 70 degrees F, the fruit will not develop. Also, leaves will grow in minimum sunlight but does not encourage fruit growth.

Step 8 Aphids, beetles are common pest to eggplants. A spray of water usually remove aphids; wash the plants early in the day. Use cardboard collar around the plants or hand pick larvae and eggs if beetles are a problem. You can also buy pesticides specifically for killing these insects - avoid spraying chemicals on the fruit.

Step 9 Harvested eggplants Pick fruit when slightly immature. Constant harvest fruit to encourage flower production. Eggplant is ready to harvest with smooth, glossy and firm skin.

How to Grow Cabbage 2

2010-01-27T19:39:00.000-08:00

How to Grow CabbageInstructions.

By Lacy Enderson

Things You'll Need:

•Shade-Cloth

•Flat

•Lightweight Row Cover

•Compost

•Fertilizer

Step 1 Grow your cabbage in at least 50% shade or under a shade-cloth. Start them in flats.

Step 2 Transplant the cabbage so the first real leaves are just above the soil. This should be deep enough to keep the plants stable. Pack the soil so the root system is completely covered.

Step 3 Protect the seedlings after transplant from insects and pests, by covering the cabbage rows with a lightweight cover. Aphids, cabbage worms, and cabbage maggots can spoil your harvest.

Step 4 Make sure to plant your cabbage in a rich soil blended with compost. Fertilize your cabbage patch once a month with a complete fertilizer. Water your cabbage everyday.

Step 5 Plant your cabbage from fall to spring if you live in the West. Plant in mid-summer for colder climates.

How to Grow Chilli Peppers

2010-01-27T05:56:00.000-08:00

How to Grow Chilli Peppers

Instructions.
Things You'll Need:

•Chili pepper plants Shovel or garden tiller Compost Ironite Peat moss Sand

Grow Chilli Peppers

Step 1 Prepare the garden for the pepper plants. Dig or till the area that you will need for the number of plants you want to grow. Depending on the size of the variety you are growing, you will need spacing to put them 12 to 16 inches apart. Add compost, quartz sand, ironite and peat moss to the tilled soil. The amounts you will use will depend on the size of your garden, but roughly use a shovel full of peat moss, sand and compost and a couple of handfuls of ironite per each plant. Turn over the mixture into the soil.

Step 2 Plant your pepper plants when the soil temperature reaches about 60 degrees and there is no chance of a returning frost. Place them in the ground at the same level as they are in the containers you purchased them in and space them 12 to 16 inches apart in an area that gets the most direct sunshine.

Step 3 Water the plants deep in the evenings and let them dry out during the day. There is no need to water during the day unless the plants show signs of significant wilt. Using trickle irrigation during the evening works well.

Step 4 Fertilize with a vegetable fertilizer once a month starting a month after planting. There should be enough nutrients in the soil from the compost and ironite that you shouldn't need the fertilizer right away.

Step 5 Go out to your garden daily and pull up any weeds. Weeds will take water and nutrition away from your pepper plants and can possibly strangle them. Don't wait and only pull them once a week or you might get overwhelmed and the weeds will have already stressed your plants

How to Grow Cucumbers

2010-01-26T15:45:00.000-08:00

How to Grow Cucumbers

Things You'll Need:

•Cloches

•Compost Makers

•Fertilizers

•Fish Emulsions

•Garden Rakes

•Garden Spades

•Garden Trowels

•Mulch

•Rototillers

•Trellises

•Vegetable Seeds

Instructions.
Step 1Choose a site with all-day sun, except in hot, dry regions, where cucumbers like some afternoon shade. Soil should have a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.

Step 2Dig deeply and enrich the soil with plenty of compost and well-rotted manure.

Step 3Sow cucumber seeds directly into the ground at least two weeks after the last frost and when both soil and air temperatures average at least 65 degrees F. Expect germination in 3 to 10 days, depending on soil temperature. (The higher the temperature, the faster the seeds will sprout.) Set vining varieties 2 to 3 feet apart; bush types, 18 inches apart.

Step 4Spray the plants with fish emulsion fertilizer about four weeks after germination, or side-dress with compost.

Step 5Mulch the soil once the plants are established to control weeds and conserve moisture.

Step 6Provide at least an inch of water each week, especially when the plants are flowering and fruiting.

Step 7Pick cucumbers when they're still moderate-sized - between 3 and 4 inches for pickling varieties and 6 to 8 inches for slicers - otherwise they'll become seedy and bitter. Cukes mature at the speed of light, so check your plants daily.

How to Grow Onions

2010-01-26T03:32:00.000-08:00

How to Grow Onions

The onion family can bring tears to your eyes, literally. Tears aside, onions are a popular vegetable, and a favorite of the home gardener. If they make you cry, why do so many home gardeners grow onions? There are lots of reasons. Try, easy to grow, takes up little space in the home garden, and lots of culinary and medicinal uses. Is that enough reasons!?!

Onions have a place in a tremendous number of recipes from main courses to soups and salads, dips and hors d'oeuvres. It is used in Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, breads, and for snacks. We once thought the only thing onions were not used in was dessert. A reader led us to onion dessert recipes!

Tip: There are lots of ideas to help avoid the tears while cutting onions. Try chewing gum. Others have suggested chewing bread, taffy, etc.

Onions are easy to grow, have a fairly short growing period, and importantly, they take up little space. With just one square foot of garden space, you can grow an onion or two. As a result, even the most space limited gardener usually has a few onions in the garden.

Onions are also good for your health. They were once believed to ward off evil spirits. (We recommend Garlic to be more effective for this use). Onions also have medicinal value. Recent medical studies suggest onions help to lower cholesterol and heart disease.

Did you Know? If you don't have a vegetable garden, place a few in your flower garden. If you rent, put a few in a planting pot or box, and set it on the deck or in a sunny window. Yes, you can grow onions just about anywhere.

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Types:

Common Slicing Varieties: White and Yellow, or Spanish onion

Purple onion -our favorite with it's mild taste, is easier on the gastro-intestinal system

Scallions or Green Onions: Grown for it's long stem, and little or no bulb.

Pearl Onions or Pickling Onions: You guessed it, for pickling

Shallots: A mild tasting, small bulb

Leeks: Like a scallions, it is mild, yet distinctive tasting. The stalk is eaten.

Vidalia Onions - defined more by where they are grown, than the variety. Learn about Vidalia Onions

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Long Day or Short Day?

Most onion varieties begin to form a bulb, when the temperature and hours of daylight reach certain levels.

"Long Day Bulbs" begin to form a bulb, when there is 14-16 hours of daylight. They include Sweet Spanish Onions and Walla Walla onions.

"Short Day Bulbs" will begin to bulb when there is 12 - 14 hours of daylight hours. Short day bulbs include Yellow Granex, Texas Grano and Red Burgundy.

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Growing Onions:

Home gardeners have three choices for starting onions. Onion seeds, seedlings, and sets (or bulbs). Seeds take the longest time, and should be started indoors. Seedlings give you a jump start on growing and are hardy. They can be bought at a garden store or bought mail order.

Plant onions 3 to 4 inches apart, in double rows six to ten inches apart. Leave enough room to get between the rows to weed.

Onions grow best in rich soft soil or loam. But they tolerate most soils, especially if you add sufficient fertilizer. Keep the soil moist, and allow good drainage.

ature sends a message to the onion plant to form a bulb. that signal is warm up and longer daylight hours. Onions are biennials. They will go to seed in the second year, sending up a tall, hard stalk with a seed pod. Many growers do not know this, as we harvest our onions in the first year. Occasionally, the onions go to seed in the first year.

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Harvest:

Pull onions when after the tops have fallen over. Rinse off dirt, and allow the onions to dry in the open air for a few days. Then, cut the tops off the onion and cut off the roots. Allow the cuts to air dry for two or three more days. This will help to seal the onion and avoid pre-mature spoiling.

Tip: To get a really early start, buy onion sets as early a possible. Place a few in some moist (not wet), loose starting mix or potting soil about two to three weeks before you can set them outdoors. They will sprout and develop a good roots system for an early start.

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Insects:

Most members of the onion family are resistant to insect problems. Root maggots can attack the bulbs.Tiny thrips are an occasional problem. Insecticidal soap sprays or sevin are very effective.

Did you know? Onions, garlic and even chives are an ingredient in a number of organic insect sprays.

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Disease of Onions:

The onion family is resistant to most disease.While they are resistant, there are a number of potential ails. Wet, and humid weather can increase the likelihood of disease.

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Hardiness:

Onions are as hardy as they come. Frosts, freezing temperatures, and even snow will not kill them. It will only slow their growth until warmer weather returns. Extended cold below 20-25 degrees however can kill them if they are growing when exposed.

Tip: Plant chives amidst your flower or herb garden once and grows for decades. Plant it along the wall of a house and you extend the season. Chives can also be grown in a sunny window all winter long.

How To Grow Cabbage

2010-01-24T07:58:00.000-08:00

1. Soil Preparation:

Cabbage require a firm soil, so do not dig up the plot for several months prior to planting. Some humus must be present, but this should not be freshly applied. Chose a fairly sunny spot that has not had another brassica planted on it in the last 3 years. Dig the plot up in the fall and work in some manure or compost. The soil must not be acidic, so liming in the winter may be necessary. A week before planting apply a fertiliser. Do not fork over the plot prior to planting, but remove any weeds or stones with a rake.

2. Sowing & Planting:

Space your rows 6 inches apart and sow the seeds thinly at a depth of 1/2 inch. Thin your seedlings to 1 foot apart so they do not become weak and thin. These thinings can be used as Spring Greens.

3. Looking After the Plants:

Hoe carefully to eliminate weeds and water if the weather is dry. Apply a liquid fertiliser as the heads begin to form. In the fall, earth up the stems by mounding soil upwards towards the stem, thus firm the soil to protect the plants from wind.

4. Harvesting the Crop:

Cabbages are best harvested with a sharp knife at ground level. With Spring and Summer varieties, cut a small X into the stump; a second crop of small cabbages will grow from these cuts. Typically, cabbages are cut when needed, but should all be harvested in November and stored for winter use. Cut off the roots and stems and remove the outer leaves. Place the cabbages in a straw-lined box, stem-side up and store in a cool, dry place. The crop should keep fresh until March.

5. Storage:

Cabbage should be wrapped in cling wrap where they should stay fresh for 1 week. Cabbage may also be canned or frozen. To freeze the cabbages, select only crisp heads and shred them into large pieces. Blanche for 1 minute and pack into freezer bags once cooled.

How to Grow Grapes

2010-01-06T22:30:00.000-08:00

Instructions

Step 1Select the type of grape you want to plant (wine, table or slipskin), then look for a variety that suits your climate. Ask your local nursery professional which variety of grape does best in your area. Some varieties prefer more or less heat and finding a variety that does well in your location is the key to successful viticulture.

Step 2Plant grapes from nursery stock or cuttings in a site located in full sun which is mandatory for good fruit production. The developing fruit requires ample heat. Vines planted in partial shade are susceptible to fungus disease.

Step 3Amend the existing soil so that it is loose, fast draining and loamy. Grapes are very deep rooted, so the deeper you amend the soil, the better. Organic compost added to a depth of 24-36 inches is ideal.

Step 4Provide a trellis or other type of support for the vines. Some varieties grow rampantly and will need ample support. Trellising also keeps the fruit above the surface of the soil where it is susceptible to rot. Grapes can be trained to grow along a south-facing fence or as espalier along the side of a building. Arbors and traditional grape stakes work very well to keep the fruit off the ground.

Step 5Prune grape vines when they are dormant. Fruit is produced on one year old wood, on stems that have formed the previous season. One year wood has smooth bark, older wood has a shaggy appearance. Retain a basic framework and remove long runners to keep plants compact and under control.

Step 6Remove long runners mid-season to keep plants under control.

How to Grow Sunflower Plants

2010-01-06T22:21:00.000-08:00

Some folk see a Sunflower as a flower. Others see it as a vegetable. It is of course both, a beautiful flower and a great vegetable! Healthy, nutritious and attractive, Sunflowers have it all. That is probably why sunflowers have spread from their native home in North America, and are now grown around the world!

As homeowners, we adorn our yards and gardens with our choice of dozens of sizes and varieties. We use it to attract birds to our homes. We also enjoy eating the seeds. They are high in protein. Sunflowers are popular as a cooking oil, too.

Sunflowers are also great for kids. The seeds are big and easy to handle, and they require minimal attention. Kids like to grow big things, so a sunflower fits the bill. The end product is not only eye appealing, but makes a great snack. We put Sunflowers, along with pumpkins, as the top two plants for kids to grow.

Native Americans used Sunflowers for a variety of uses. They ground the seeds for making breads and cakes. Like today, the seed was used as a snack. It was used to create dyes for clothing, and as body paint. The plants were used medicinally for ointments and snakebite remedies.

Did you know?: Sunflower plants can grow over 20 feet tall, and their blooms over two feet in diameter? Fall festivals often include competition for the tallest sunflower. Giant Sunflower competitions are a regular at most giant pumpkin weigh-offs.

The most popular giant sunflower plants include: Mammoth, American Giant and Skyscraper.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Varieties of Sunflowers:

There are many types of sunflowers. And, gardeners like to grow a wide variety of them.

Sunflowers are basically separated by size. The giant varieties grow over ten feet. Regular sunflowers typically grow from six to ten feet. Miniatures are gaining in popularity as borders. They are very popular in Asia, and grow two to four feet.

Some varieties of sunflowers have one big head or flower. They are usually the giant sunflower varieties. Other large headed varieties, have a few much smaller heads that form on lower branches. Some varieties have multiple heads. These are typically mid sized sunflowers, and are perfect for flower gardens in attracting birds.

Sunflower seeds are usually a dark brown to black, or large, grey and white striped. The latter is the most popular for eating due, to their large size. Don't worry over selection. The birds will eat ample quantities of both, and so will you. Whether you are feeding the wildlife or not, there are plenty of wildlife that enjoy sunflower. They include all sorts of birds of course, squirrels, and rodents.

Giant Sunflowers - Many people find growing these to be addicting. A giant sunflower can be either a very tall plant, or an enormous flowerhead.

Tithonia, or Mexican Sunflower- Grow 4-6 feet tall, with daisy-like flowers. Blooms summer to fall.

Did you know? If you have a pet hamster,mouse, gerbil or bird, adding a few sunflower seeds in their diet as a nice treat.

Sunflower Varieites - See the biggest and the best varieites around.

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Sowing Sunflower Seeds:

"Autumn Sun" Sunflower

Sunflower seeds are best sown outdoors directly into the garden. After planting, cover them with a screen, as the birds and animals love to dig the seeds out. You can also start them in a seedbed and transfer them when they are small.

If you plant sunflowers indoors, use individual peat pots. Start two to three weeks before the last frost date for your area. Plant one or two seeds per pot, thinning to one before planting outdoors.

If you grow them to feed the birds, look for seedlings growing near the base of last year's crop. They can be left to grow, or transplanted to another location.

Whether you plant directly outdoors or transplant them, make the final spacing as follows:

Giants: Space three feet apart in rows three to four feet apart.

Regular/Intermediate sizes: Space two feet apart in rows three feet apart.

Miniatures: Space one foot apart in rows three feet apart.

For individual planting, put the seedling or seeds in just about any sunny location. Plant either individual, in groups, or in patterns. Make sure they are visible from your deck, porch and windows.

Did you know? Sunflowers always point their blooms or face to the rising sun in the East. Keep this in mind as you determine where to plant them.

Tip: Miniatures make great borders or edging plants in flower gardens.

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Days to Maturity:

70 to 90 days or more, depending upon the variety. Read the package for the specific time for the variety you acquire.

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How to Grow Sunflowers:

Sunflower plants grow well in average to rich soils. They need to grow their roots deep and wide, to enable them to withstand strong winds. If you have a choice, sandy soils are not recommended, as they are easily uprooted in loose soil. Rich soil is important, when growing giant varieties.

Contrary to it's name, we found they will tolerate some shade as we put them against an east wall of our house every year. However, they will grow their best in full sun.

Deep roots help sunflowers to withstand most droughts. They will benefit from a dose of fertilizer when you apply it to the rest of your garden. Apply extra phosphorus and potassium when the flower bud begins to develop, to promote bigger blooms.

Tip: If you are crowded for space, plant one or two sunflowers amidst your vine crops. One or two will not seriously shade the vines. Make sure not to plant them near their tap roots for the vines.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Harvesting:

Harvest sunflower seeds after the flower begins to die back, and most if not all, of the petals have fallen off. Pull out a seed and open it to see if it is full. Cut off the head, leaving a few inches of stalk. Hang the stalks to dry in a well ventilated area. Do not stack them in a box, as mold can develop during the drying process. As soon as the flowers have dried, extract the seeds by rubbing two flower heads together. They should come off of the flowerhead fairly easily.

Sunflowers are also used as dried flowers in vases and for craft projects. They can be cut just before the flowers die off and dried over a few weeks. Miniature sunflowers make lovely fresh bouquets also. For craft projects, it is important to leave a sufficient amount of stalk.

We enjoy sharing this crop with wildlife. We also enjoy eating the seeds, too. Birds and squirrels will begin their assault before the seeds are completely ripe. You can protect against this annual invasion by covering the entire flower with an old nylon stocking, a cheese cloth bag, or any other covering that allows light and especially air to flow through. Do not use plastic bags, as moisture buildup will rot the flower and heat buildup will scald it. Some people will put a bag below the flower to catch any seeds that fall.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Insects and Pests:

The birds and squirrels are the primary invaders for your Sunflower crop. Fortunately, most insects are not a problem. Occasionally, ants enjoy the nectar from the flower. They are no real threat to the seeds.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Diseases of Sunflowers:

Sunflowers seldom have disease problems. Score another point for an easy to grow and enjoyable plant!

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Hardiness:

Sunflowers are an annual. They can withstand a mild frost. However, cover your seedlings if a hard spring freeze is anticipated

How to Grow A Peanut Plant

2010-01-06T22:00:00.000-08:00

Instructions.Step
1First you will need to acquire peanuts that are ready to be planted.

Search the grocery stores in your area for un-roasted peanuts (raw). The packaging should indicate whether or not the peanuts are cooked, roasted or raw.

Grocery stores usually keep raw and roasted peanuts in the fresh produce section.

Peanuts ready for planting can easily be found for sale on the internet.

Step

2Each peanut plant will need it's own flower pot.

The flower pots should be equal to about one square foot. It's possible to use a small herb pot to grow peanuts in. However, using a bigger flower pot will give you more peanuts.

If you have access to a lot of land, peanuts can be grown in the ground as long as the soil is loose.

Step
3Fill each flower pot with loose potting soil.

Moisten the soil with water.

Step
4Plant one peanut "seed" per flower pot.

Plant peanuts one to two feet apart if you are planting them directly into the ground instead of in flower pots.

Step
5Water the peanuts daily and more if you need to in order to keep the soil moist.

The soil should remain moist until the plants have pushed up out of the dirt.

After the peanut plant is growing and healthy, the soil can dry out for a day without killing the plant.

Step
6Check peanut plants daily for pests.

Don't use any pesticides, fertilizers or harmful chemicals anywhere near your peanut plants!

Step
7Harvest the mature peanut plants before fall.

Gently pull up the entire plant (roots and all.)

Cut off the leaves and add them into your compost bin.

Lay the peanuts out in a dry location for about 3 - 7 days where they will dry.
(Don't place peanuts in direct sunlight to dry)

Step
8Use or store peanuts at this point.

Peanuts should be stored in a dark, dry location at room temperature.

*Throw any black, mushy or moldy peanuts in the garbage!*

Step
9Save and plant some of the peanuts next spring for next years peanut crops.

Homegrown peanuts are good to eat after they have been roasted and salted.

Homemade peanut butter is easy to make and delicious to eat

Raspberry

2010-01-03T07:51:00.000-08:00

The raspberry (plural, raspberries) is the edible fruit of a multitude of plant species in the subgenus Idaeobatus of the genus Rubus; the name also applies to these plants themselves. The name originally referred to the European species Rubus idaeus (with red fruit), and is still used as its standard English name.[1]

Raspberries are grown for the fresh fruit market and for commercial processing into individually quick frozen (IQF) fruit, purée, juice, or as dried fruit used in a variety of grocery products. Traditionally, raspberries were a mid-summer crop, but with new technology, cultivars, and transportation, they can now be obtained year-round. Raspberries need ample sun and water for optimal development. While moisture is essential, wet and heavy soils or excess irrigation can bring on Phytophthora root rot which is one of the most serious pest problems facing red raspberry. As a cultivated plant in moist temperate regions, it is easy to grow and has a tendency to spread unless pruned. Escaped raspberries frequently appear as garden weeds, spread by seeds found in bird droppings.

Two types of most commercially grown kinds of raspberry are available, the summer-bearing type that produces an abundance of fruit on second-year canes (floricanes) within a relatively short period in mid-summer, and double- or "ever"-bearing plants, which also bear some fruit on first-year canes (primocanes) in the late summer and fall, as well as the summer crop on second-year canes. Raspberries can be cultivated from hardiness zones 3 to 9.

Raspberries are traditionally planted in the winter as dormant canes, although planting of tender, plug plants produced by tissue culture has become much more common. A specialized production system called "long cane production" involves growing canes for 1 year in a northern climate such as Scotland (UK) or Washington State (US) where the chilling requirement for proper budbreak is met early. These canes are then dug, roots and all, to be replanted in warmer climates such as Spain where they quickly flower and produce a very early season crop. Plants should be spaced 1 m apart in fertile, well drained soil; raspberries are usually planted in raised beds/ridges if there is any question about root rot problems.

The flowers can be a major nectar source for honeybees and other pollinators.

Raspberries are very vigorous and can be locally invasive. They propagate using basal shoots (also known as suckers); extended underground shoots that develop roots and individual plants. They can sucker new canes some distance from the main plant. For this reason, raspberries spread well, and can take over gardens if left unchecked.

The fruit is harvested when it comes off the torus/receptacle easily and has turned a deep color (red, black, purple, or golden yellow, depending on the species and cultivar). This is when the fruits are ripest and sweetest. Excess fruit can be made into raspberry jam or frozen.

The leaves can be used fresh or dried in herbal and medicinal teas. They have an astringent flavour, and in herbal medicine are reputed to be effective in regulating menses.

An individual raspberry weighs about 4 g, on average[2] and is made up of around 100 drupelets,[3] each of which consists of a juicy pulp and a single central seed. Raspberry bushes can yield several hundred berries a year. Unlike blackberries and dewberries, a raspberry has a hollow core once it is removed from the receptacle.

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Gift Box

2009-12-27T07:32:00.001-08:00

Chrismas

2009-12-17T21:42:00.000-08:00

Tomato Seed Kit

2009-12-17T21:31:00.001-08:00

Cloud b Twilight Turtle - Constellation Night Light

2009-11-11T20:54:00.000-08:00

iRobot 500 Series Roomba Vacuum-Cleaning Robot with On-Board Scheduling

2009-10-21T08:15:00.000-07:00

Vitamins http://astore.amazon.com/health.personal.care.nutrition.fitness.vitamins.supplements-20

2009-09-29T12:44:00.000-07:00

AeroGrow AeroGarden with Gourmet Herb Seed Kit, Black

2009-07-26T08:37:00.000-07:00

Product Description
Enjoy the taste and fragrance of fresh herbs, vegetables and salad greens grown right in your kitchen. The AeroGarden grows them all with no dirt, mess or pesticides. Plants grow in water, nutrients and air, up to twice as fast as plants grown in soil. It’s easy, foolproof, and 100% guaranteed. It’s self-watering and self-feeding. The AeroGarden automatically controls the built-in grow bulbs and tells you when to add more water and nutrients. Grow fresh Italian Basil, Purple Basil, Chives, Dill, Mint, Parsley & Thyme with the included Gourmet Herb Seed Kit. Seed kits for cherry tomatoes, chili peppers, romaine lettuce, petunias and more also are available.

Cicada

2009-07-17T21:38:00.000-07:00

Cicada Books

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedi

A cicada (pronounced /sɪˈkeɪdə/) is an insect of the order Hemiptera, suborder Auchenorrhyncha, in the superfamily Cicadoidea, with large eyes wide apart on the head and usually transparent, well-veined wings. There are about 2,500 species of cicada around the world, and many remain unclassified. Cicadas live in temperate to tropical climates where they are among the most widely recognized of all insects, mainly due to their large size and remarkable acoustic talents. Cicadas are sometimes colloquially called "locusts",[1] although they are unrelated to true locusts, which are a kind of grasshopper. They are also known as "jar flies". Cicadas are related to leafhoppers and spittlebugs. In parts of the southern Appalachian Mountains in the United States they are known as "dry flies" because of the dry shell they leave behind.
Cicadas are benign to humans and do not bite or sting, but can be pests to several cultivated crops. Many people around the world regularly eat cicadas: the female is prized as it is meatier. Cicadas have been (or are still) eaten in Ancient Greece, China, Malaysia, Burma, Latin America, and the Congo. Shells of cicadas are employed in the traditional medicines of China.[2]
The name is a direct derivation of the Latin cicada, meaning "buzzer". In classical Greek it was called a tettix, and in modern Greek tzitzikas - both names being onomatopoeic

Taxonomy
Cicadas are arranged into two families: Tettigarctidae (q.v.) and Cicadidae. There are two extant species of Tettigarctidae, one in southern Australia, and the other in Tasmania. The family Cicadidae is subdivided into the subfamilies Tettigadinae, Cicadinae, and Cicadettinae, and they exist on all continents except Antarctica.

17-year cicada, or magicicada

Cicada found in Chicago, IL, USA, on June, 2007
The largest cicadas are in the genera Pomponia and Tacua. There are some 200 species in 38 genera in Australia, about 450 in Africa, about 100 in the Palaearctic, and exactly one species in England, the New Forest cicada, Melampsalta montana, widely distributed throughout Europe. There are about 150 species in South Africa.
Most of the North American species are in the genus Tibicen - the annual or dog-day cicadas (so named because they emerge in late July and August [1] ). The best-known North American genus is Magicicada, however. These periodical cicadas have an extremely long life cycle of 13 to 17 years and emerge in large numbers.[1] Another American species is the Apache cicada, Diceroprocta apache.
Australian cicadas can differ from many other types because of that continent's diversity of climate and terrain. In Australia, cicadas are found on tropical islands and cold coastal beaches around Tasmania; in tropical wetlands; high and low deserts; alpine areas of New South Wales and Victoria; large cities like Sydney, Melbourne, and Brisbane; and Tasmanian highlands and snowfields.
Thirty-eight species from five genera populate New Zealand, and all are endemic to New Zealand and the surrounding islands (Norfolk Island, New Caledonia). Many New Zealand cicada species differ from those of other countries by being found high up on mountain tops.

Description
The adult insect, sometimes called an imago, is usually 2 to 5 cm (1 to 2 in) long, although some tropical species can reach 15 cm (6 in), e.g. Pomponia imperatoria from Malaysia. Cicadas have prominent eyes set wide apart on the sides of the head, short antennae protruding between or in front of the eyes, and membranous front wings. Also, commonly overlooked, cicadas have 3 small eyes located on the top of the head between the two large eyes that match the color of the large eyes, giving them a total of five eyes. Desert cicadas are also among the few insects known to cool themselves by sweating,[3] while many other cicadas can voluntarily raise their body temperatures as much as 22 °C (72 °F) above ambient temperature.[4]

Cicada found in Chicago, IL, USA, on June, 2007

Scientific classification

Kingdom:Animalia

Phylum:Arthropoda
Class:Insecta
Order:Hemiptera
Suborder:Auchenorrhyncha
Infraorder:Cicadomorpha
Superfamily:Cicadoidea
Family:Cicadida

Cicada found in Lampang,Th,on June 2009

Cicada Books

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Vampire Artwork

2009-07-06T07:46:00.000-07:00

VICTORIA FRANCES VAMPIRE GIRL POSTER NEW GOTHIC ST4179

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2009-07-05T21:31:00.001-07:00

Growing peanuts in a home garden

2009-07-04T00:40:00.000-07:00

Growing Peanuts Outdoors
Make sure you have raw peanuts. You can purchase seeds for a catalog or garden center or buy raw peanuts at the grocery store.

Growing Peanuts with the Garden Soil Method
Growing peanuts in the soil is the way peanuts have been grown for years and is recommended if you are going a large crop. I am talking acres!

Plow the ground deeply. This will be at least seven inches or more. I myself prefer 12 inches.Plant the peanuts after the last frost in very sandy soil. This will ensure good drainage. A good peanut crop requires that the soil drain well.

Sow the peanuts two inches deep and space the seeds seven inches apart. Make sure that any peanut seed is whole. A broken peanut will not germinate.

Peanuts are heavy feeders so add a lot of compost and manure.

Mulch! This will keep the soil loose so that the peanut crop will grow well. It also cuts down on weeds and will retain moisture.

Water well when planting. Do not water again until the peanut plant sprouts.

Growing peanuts using Square Foot Gardening method.
This is the way I plant peanuts. I find it suits my gardening zone better plus I like square foot gardening.

Set up your garden bed using the Square Foot Gardening method.

For growing peanuts I use a one foot garden raised bed width and build the raised bed about 1 foot high.

I add rich compost to the garden bed every 7 inches, where I plan to plant each seed. I dig a hole, remove the soil and place a one-pound coffee can of compost in the hole.

Follow the planting instructions above.

Taking care of and harvesting your peanut crop
Using either method your peanuts should germinate and appear above ground in one week. When you begin watering the plants regularly, do not over-water. Over-watering will create poor peanuts or no peanuts.

Keep the peanut garden area free from weeds. Weeds hinder peanut plant growth and take away nutrients form the peanut crop growing below

In 130 days your plants will be mature and the crop should be ready to harvest. You will be harvesting you crop in the fall and will pull the whole plant out.

Tip: If you use a spading fork first to loosen the soil, the plants will remove easily. Foliage on the plant will be yellow when ready for harvesting.

Allow the peanuts to dry for two to four weeks, Store in a cool place until you are ready to roast them.

The reason I like square foot gardening for raising peanuts outdoors is that they are easier to harvest and the square foot gardening methods using mulch creates a no weeding effect. The peanuts are also cleaner and I think you have a larger crop in a much smaller area

Growing blueberry in the home garden

2009-06-26T22:37:00.000-07:00

Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet
Horticulture and Crop Science
2021 Coffey Rd., Columbus, Ohio 43210-1086

Growing Blueberries in the Home Garden
HYG-1422-98
Gary GaoExtension Agent, HorticultureOSU Extension, Clermont County
Blueberries are a very popular fruit in the United States because of their unique flavor, small edible seeds, and ease of preparation. Blueberries can be eaten fresh or used for jelly, jam, pies, pastries, or juice. Blueberry fruit is also low in calories and sodium, contains no cholesterol, and is a source of fiber. A major constituent of the fiber is pectin, known for its ability to lower blood cholesterol. Blueberries contain measurable quantities of ellagic acid, which has inhibiting effects on chemically induced cancer in laboratory studies. Blueberry juice also contains a compound that prevents bacteria from anchoring themselves to the bladder, thereby helping to prevent urinary tract infections.

Should I Grow Blueberries at Home?
Blueberries could make a good fruit crop for home gardens since they require small space. At present, blueberry plants are not common in home plantings because the plants require highly acidic soil conditions for best results. Few backyard soils in Ohio are naturally acidic enough to grow quality blueberries. The grower of blueberries must, therefore, make extra effort to acidify the soil before plant establishment. Then, the acidity level must be maintained over the life of the planting. Due to the special concerns associated with the rather demanding soil requirements of growing the crop, the soil must be amended with organic matter and the pH must be corrected before proceeding to establish the planting.

Blueberry plants begin to produce fruit in the third season; however, they do not become fully productive for about six years (Figure 1). Once in production, it is necessary to protect the fruit from loss to birds.

Climatic Requirements
In general, the climate throughout Ohio is suited to the production of blueberries. Plants are generally not hardy when temperatures drop below -20F.
Site and Soil Requirements for Blueberry Production
The highbush blueberry requires full sun for optimum yield and quality, and grows best where the soil is very acidic and well supplied with moisture. Soil pH should be in the range of 4 to 4.5 and have 4 to 7% organic matter or more.
On loam or clay loam soils, it is suggested that plants be grown on raised beds, 4 feet wide and 9 inches high for better water drainage. Such beds are not needed for production on sandy soils.

Soil Preparation
It is very important to test soil for pH, lime index, nutrient status, and organic matter content before conducting soil preparation. Your soil should be tested twice; once before soil preparation and acidification, and once after sulfur and fertilizer have been added. Further adjustments may then be necessary. Your local Extension offices have soil-testing forms, bags, and instructions available. Increase soil organic matter by adding grass clippings, manure, or leaves (not red maple or beech) according to soil test recommendations. Incorporate the materials into the top 4 to 6 inches at least one year before planting.
Suggestions for Soil Acidification

If soil pH is above 4.5, apply granular sulfur to lower soil pH. Refer to Table 2 for general guidelines for the amount of granular sulfur to apply to 100 square feet of soil to be acidified. The material should be well mixed throughout the top 4 inches of soil, three months before planting.

Planting
At planting, dig a hole 18 inches deep and 18 inches wide and mix 1 cubic foot of peat moss with top soil until the hole is filled 4 inches from the top. Set the plant and cover the roots with the remaining peat-soil mix. In heavy soils, an equal amount of peat can be mixed with an equal amount of soil. Set plants 5 feet apart with rows 10 feet apart. Apply 4 inches of sawdust or wood-chip mulch in a 2 feet wide band after planting, and maintain a 4 inch depth and 4 feet band over the life of the planting.

Fertilizers
Fertilizers for blueberry production are best applied using soil test results as a guide. At planting, apply 1/2 to 2/3 pound of ammonium sulfate (or 10 to 16 ounces of 10-10-10) per 100 feet of row 4 weeks after planting. Keep fertilizer at least 6 inches away from plant.
In the second through twelfth years, apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of ammonium sulfate (2 to 3 pounds of 10-10-10) per 100 feet of row each year for fertility and acidity maintenance. Apply 0.5 pound of the ammonium sulfate at bloom, and the remaining 0.5 pound 4 to 6 weeks later. If plant leaves become chlorotic, apply 2 to 3 ounces of ferrous sulfate or iron chelate around the base of the plants each year.

Watering
Blueberry bushes have very shallow root systems and are very sensitive to water fluctuations. They need at least 1 to 2 inches of water per week. In dry seasons, supplemental watering is essential to obtain good yields of high quality products. However, do not apply water after early September unless soil is very dry.

Pruning
Blueberry plants normally do not need to be pruned for the first three years. Remove blossoms that appear in the year of planting and second year after planting to stimulate vigorous growth.
It is important to know the anatomy of a blueberry bush before attempting to prune blueberries (Figure 2). During the fourth year, the dormant plants should be pruned in mid-March. At this time, remove dead and weak branches and thin, terminal wood with small buds. Prune interior crossing branches to admit light to the center of the plant.

Mulching
Generous use of mulches like sawdust or peat moss will help control weeds, conserve moisture, and keep roots cool. Increased organic matter from decomposing mulch will help improve soil structure and nutrient uptake of blueberry bush. Replenish mulch as needed to keep the mulch depth at 2 to 4 inches.

Insects and Diseases
Some potential insect problems in blueberries include blueberry tip borer, plum curculio, cranberry fruit worm, and cherry fruitworm. Disease problems include mummy berry, powdery mildew, twig blights, botrytis blossom blight, leaf spots, and cane gall. For more information about growing blueberries, obtain a copy from your Extension office of Bulletin 591, "Growing and Using Fruit at Home" and Bulletin 780, "Controlling Disease and Insects in Home Fruit Planting."

Kamil Kurka's coffee maker looks like it beamed down from the Enterprise

2009-06-02T20:07:00.000-07:00

This coffee maker by Kamil Kurka doesn't look like it belongs to our century. Beyond its good looks — after all, I think a design like that can speak for itself — the unit also features controls that'll let you customize your cup o' joe. You can set how hot you want it as well as how much you want to make, which probably helps brew a more consistent beverage than the eyeballing I do every morning.

The only downside is that it looks like you'd be brewing just one cup at a time, much like a French press. Still, with good looks like that, who minds waiting for a second cup? Here's hoping Kurka's coffee maker design finds its way on to a shelf in the future.

JOMCHANG VILLA IJ 1.6.2009

2009-06-01T20:57:00.000-07:00

JOMCHANG, A small exclusive private residential development on Phuket's western coast, sits discretely on a secluded headland with something of a mythical past - a past intertwined with the very origins of Phuket. It's called Jomchang, a name derived from one of the mythical settlers of the island's pre-history, Toh Yomding - a man blessed with magical powers.
Few, if any, development sites in the world match Jomchang. It is situated on a secluded headland on the west coast of Phuket, where an almost forgotten stretch of the most beautiful coastline Phuket has to offer has been opened up by a new road – and Jomchang’s developers got to it first.
Jomchang is an ambitious project. And it has a peerless cross-professional team of designers, engineers and project managers dedicated to an imaginative residential response to an exquisite site. The Jomchang team is a team with imagination. With flair. And with a wealth of experience
News: October 2007
We have just completed a restructuring at Jomchang to allow sales by leasehold. Outline details of this very secure, renewable lease structure can be found under Project Information
A new pricing structure has also be introduced, both to the few remaining plots on the original Jomchang and also on Jomchang Two.
Contact us today for details of the new structure and price.

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Growing and Maintaining Bamboo

2009-05-30T19:48:00.000-07:00

Placement and Spacing

Although most people have a place in mind as to where they want to plant their bamboo, one should keep in mind that most large bamboos (Phyllostachys) do best with 5 or more hours of direct sunlight. They must be given ample water, fertilizer, and protection from competitive weeds. They will benefit from a windscreen and light shade when first planted as well. This is especially true of smaller plants. Fargesias, Thamnocalamus and Sasas do well with light to moderate shade. In fact the Fargesias and most Thamnocalamus are happier with some shade during the hottest part of the day. Fargesia and Thamnocalamus are the hardiest of the clump type bamboos. They can be planted without fear of spreading. Most other hardy bamboos can spread by their underground rhizomes and this must be taken into account when planting them. We recommend annual root pruning as the first option for control. Also, barrier of 60 mil by 30 inch deep, HDPE (high density polyethylene) can be used for rhizome control. See this page for control methods

Bamboo should be spaced 3 to 5 feet apart to form a dense screen. The faster spreading types can be planted farther apart, if you are willing to wait a little longer for the screen to fill out. Starting from a small size, most bamboos will reach mature height within five or six years. As a very general rule, Clumping bamboo gain about 1-2 feet of height per year, and the Running types grow about 3-5 feet per year, and spread outward at the same rate. Height and spread rate is variable depending on the species and climate. If as instantaneous screen is desired, most bamboo will not suffer from being planted nearly back to back. Feel free to contact us to discuss details about your project.

Planting Your New Bamboos

Most bamboos are happiest in a moderately acidic loamy soil. If your soil is very heavy you can add organic material. It can be dug into the soil where the bamboo is to be planted, but the easiest thing is to mulch very heavily and let the earthworms do the work. Spread two or more inches of mulch in the area around the bamboo, and where you want the bamboo to grow. Bamboo is a forest plant and does best if a mulch is kept over the roots and rhizomes. It is best not to rake or sweep up the bamboo leaves from under the plant, as they keep the soil soft, and moist, and recycle silica and other natural chemicals necessary to the bamboo. A low-growing shade-tolerant groundcover plant that will allow the leaves to fall through to form a mulch without being visible will work if you find the dry leaf mulch objectionable. Almost any organic material is a good mulch. Grass is one of the best, as it is high in nitrogen and silica. Home made or commercial compost is great. Hay is a good mulch too but hay and manure are often a source of weed seeds, so that can be a problem. Any kind of manure is good, if it isn't too hot. Limited amounts of very hot manures like chicken are OK if used with care. At our nursery we use a large amount of chipped trees from tree pruning services. This can harbor pathogens that can affect some trees or shrubs, but the bamboo loves it.

Timing and winter protection

Bamboos can be planted at any time of the year in areas with mild climates such as we have in the maritime Pacific Northwest. In colder parts of the world they should be planted outdoors early enough to become established and to harden off sufficiently to survive their first winter. If the bamboo is planted late in the year, one should mulch the plant heavily and provide extra protection from any cold and drying winds. In colder climates where bamboos may be marginal, successful growers usually protect their bamboos through the winter with a heavy mulch. Even in very cold climates in an established bamboo grove with a heavy layer of bamboo leaves covering the ground, the soil will be soft and friable during periods when the surrounding soils are frozen hard and deep.

Controlling the spread of bamboo

We recommend annual root pruning as the first option for control. Also, barrier of 60 mil by 30 inch deep, HDPE (high density polyethylene) can be used for rhizome control. See this page for control methods . If you plan to install a barrier to control the spread of running bamboos, it is important to install it properly to ensure its effectiveness. In other than very light soils, the bamboo rhizomes are usually in the top few inches of soil. However when the rhizome encounters an obstruction it will turn, and sometimes it will go down. It is important to avoid loose soil or air pockets next to the barrier or the bamboo may go deeper than you want and perhaps go under the barrier. When filling the hole after placing the barrier, tightly compact the soil next to the barrier. Any soil amendments must be added only in the top foot or so. You mustn't encourage deep rhizome growth if you want to contain the bamboo. If the bamboo planting can be surrounded by a shallow trench 8 to 10 inches deep, this can be a cheaper and easier method to control its spread. See link for pruning trench technique. You just need to check a couple of times in the late summer and fall to see if any rhizomes have tried to cross the trench, and cut them off. Checking for spreading rhizomes is very important. It must be done each fall, whether you are using barrier or a trench.

Growing bamboo in containers
Bamboo may be grown in a pot if there is not a suitable place to put it in the ground, but more care is required. Watering is more critical as bamboo does not like to dry out, nor does it like to be soggy. In containers bamboos, especially those that are not well adapted to hot sun, require more care in placement as they can be damaged if the pot overheats. During winter, container bamboos are susceptible to freezing and if not protected may die. Bamboo in containers is not nearly as hardy as the same bamboo would be in the ground. Bamboo can be a fine container plant if its needs are met.

Staking tall plants

When planting very tall and slender bamboos, they may need to be staked; actually guyed is a better term. This will prevent wind from uprooting them or damaging newly formed roots. Tall bamboo plants are best guyed with a rope tied to the culms up about ½ way up, and to short stakes on 3 or 4 sides of the plant at sufficient distance to give the strength needed to prevent the wind from uprooting the stakes.

Yellowing and falling leaves.

In the spring there is considerable yellowing of the leaves, followed by leaf drop. This is natural and should not cause concern, as bamboos are evergreen and naturally renew their leaves in the spring. They should loose their leaves gradually as they are replaced by fresh new ones. In the spring on a healthy bamboo there should be a mixture of green leaves, yellow leaves and newly unfurling leaves.

Water

Newly planted bamboos need frequent and liberal watering. Twice a week during mild weather, and perhaps even daily during hot or windy weather, give your bamboo a good watering. Make sure that each plant under 5 gallon pot size gets at least ½ gallon of water. For plants over 5 gallon size more than 1 gallon is advised. Once a bamboo has reached the desired size, it can survive with much less irrigation. But until then you must water and fertilize copiously to achieve optimum growth. Lack of sufficient water especially during hot or windy weather is the leading cause of failure or poor growth of new bamboo plants. Watering newly planted bamboos every day, or for longer than a few minutes can cause excess leaf drop. Well-established bamboos are rather tolerant of flooding, but newly planted bamboos can suffer from too much as well as too little water.

Fertilizing
Bamboo if planted in a suitable site (full sun for most, partial shade for some) and given ample water can grow and eventually thrive. But if you want a healthy attractive vigorous plant, you must fertilize. We use a lawn fertilizer it is high in nitrogen. 21-5-6 is the formula. Organic fertilizer high in nitrogen is even better, though it is more expensive. Provide a 2-3 inch layer of compost or aged manure around the base of the plant, and outward where you want it to spread, for a natural source of plant food.

Pruning Bamboo
Maintenance pruning
Bamboo like other plants requires some pruning to maintain its attractiveness. Bamboo culms live only to about 15 years. Once each year you should remove older unattractive culms and cut off any dead or unattractive branches. You can prune bamboo without fear of damaging it. Just trim so it looks attractive. Make cuts just above a node, so as not to leave a stub that will die back and look unsightly. If you cut back the top, you may want to also shorten some of the side branches so the plant will look more balanced, not leaving long branches at the top.

Thinning for large culms
Timber bamboo will grow large more quickly if you remove the smaller and older culms so newer larger ones will have room to grow.

Topiary
Bamboo may be trimmed in topiary fashion. You may top the culms, remove some lower branches, and shorten some side branches and remove others. Any culms or branches cut do not grow back longer but only grow more leaves.

For Screens or Hedges
Bamboo may also be cut to form a hedge as one might do with boxwood or other traditional hedge plants if one wishes. This is best done after the new culms grow to full height in the spring or summer. (Most of the new growth on a bamboo plant happens at the same time of the year, usually late spring or early summer for temperate bamboos.) There should need be only one major pruning, with only minor touch up at other times of the year. If you want to control the size or height of your bamboo, and retain the natural look of the bamboo, this can be done by removing new shoots that are significantly larger in diameter than the culms that are the desired height. These shoots will be replaced by smaller diameter culms that will not grow so tall. This can be safely done with a plant that has been well established, not a newly planted bamboo.

Legging up
For display of colorful bamboos such as Phyllostachys nigra, Phyllostachys bambusoides ‘Castillonis’ and Phyllostachys vivax ‘Aureocaulis’ you can enhance the beauty by removing smaller culms and cutting off lower branches so that the beauty of the culms is visible.

Groundcover Bamboos
For dwarf bamboo we recommend cutting it to the ground each spring, so that the plant is rejuvenated. It will look much nicer when the new growth emerges, and it will be kept shorter and more dense. Dwarf bamboos are also often trimmed later in the season to keep them shorter and more uniform in height. In very cold climates such as zones 4 or 5 dwarf bamboos may have their tops freeze back in the winter and still be good for landscaping. Just mow them as you should do in places where they don’t freeze back.

Trench & Vertical Tomato Planting Techniques

2009-05-26T21:05:00.000-07:00

by National Gardening Association Editors
Here are the two main methods for getting your tomato plants in the ground. The trench method is best for tall, leggy seedlings and for cooler climates. The vertical method allows you to put the plant's roots where they can take advantage of a larger reservoir of soil moisture, which is helpful in areas with hot, arid growing seasons.
Trench Planting
First, pinch any yellowing or dying leaves off the tomato plant and lay the whole it horizontally in a shallow trench. Cover the stem with two or three inches of soil and bring just the top cluster of leaves above the surface.An advantage to trenching in cool regions is that the roots are only a few inches from the warmest part of the soil and this encourages more growth from the heat-loving tomato plants. Once you've prepped for planting as outlined in Transplanting Tomatoes, carefully take the tomato plant out of its container. Cup your hand around the rootball, and disturb the soil covering the roots as little as possible. Pinch off any yellow lower leaves, leaving just the green ones.Wrap a newspaper or paperboard cutworm collar around the stem where it enters the soil, and lay the plant horizontally in the trench. Quickly cover the roots and stem up two to three inches of soil, leaving just the leafy top exposed. Don't try to bend the top of the plant up -- just push a little pillow of soil underneath to support it. Mother Nature will see that it grows in the right direction.Space the plants so that the top clusters of leaves showing above the surface are 36 to 48 inches apart. You can put them 10 to 24 inches apart if you plan on staking or caging them. Leave enough space - two or three feet - between the rows so you can cultivate and later get around the plants to prune and harvest.Give the area a good soaking after the seedlings are in place.If you wait until later to stake or cage your trenched plants, you may forget where the stems are buried, and risk damaging them. For this reason it's best to stake or cage your trench-planted tomatoes right away. If your garden is in a windy spot, put the stakes on the side of the plants opposite the prevailing winds. If the wind comes from the west, for example, place the stakes on the east side of the plants. Then, when the wind blows the plant will be held against the stake. Otherwise, if the wind pushes the plant against the string or ties holding it to the stake, the stem might suffer damage.
Vertical Planting Technique
With this method you prepare a hole for each of your tomato plants and set them in vertically. You can plant them to the same level they were growing in their container, or pinch off yellowing lower leaves and plant the seedlings deeper. Leggy seedlings gain the most advantage from deep, vertical planting once the soil temperature reaches 60° F. Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart if you plan on staking or caging them. If you let them to sprawl, give them more room -- 36 to 48 inches -- and space rows three feet apart.

Mighty Bright XtraFlex2 Clip-On Light (Black, Kindle Version)

2009-05-25T20:27:00.000-07:00

Mighty Bright XtraFlex2 Clip-On Light (Black, Kindle Version)From Mighty Bright

Product Description
The Mighty Bright XtraFlex2 Light is a battery operated clamp-on accessory that is custom designed to illuminate your Kindle Wireless Reading device. Two Super LED lights in one head gives you the lighting power of 6 normal LEDs. You have the option of using one or two of the Super LED lights with just a simple tap of the proprietary sensor switch. The flexible neck allows you to position your lighting anywhere you want it. With the XtraFlex2, you can take your Kindle anywhere--in bed, on the bus or train, and have proper illumination at your fingertips.

Product Details
Size: 3-Cup
Color: Black
Brand: Mighty Bright
Model: 40530
Dimensions: 6.50" h x 4.00" w x 5.00" l, 3.20 pounds

Features
Two "Super LEDs" are as bright as six regular LEDs and never need replacing
LumaLenz optical-grade lens spreads light evenly with no hot spots
MightyGrip strong wide mouth clip grips almost anything, or use free standing as a task light
MightFlex fully adjustable arm will position and hold light in place
Designed for attachment to your Kindle book cover

Customer Reviews
Super Clip-on Had another 'non-kindle' booklight already, but the light and housing didn't work that well with it. This product however, is perfect - esp. since it is designed for the Kindle. Light is perfect, not too glaring, body of the light is completely flexible for just the right angle...Absolutely perfect. $20 is alot, but after the purchase - well worth it. Would I do it again? You bet!
Every task. I love this light,not only 4 my kindle but 2 come downstairs in a motel room and not wake anyone elso up because i needed 2 turn a light on. I great. Di
A great accessory for Kindle. I would recommend this book light to anyone. It is easy to use and functions well.

MSA SAFTY

2009-05-17T21:26:00.001-07:00

MSA Safety Works 10005043 N95 Harmful Dust Respirator 20-PackFrom MSA Safety Works
List Price:
$27.99
Price:
$18.96 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details

Availability: Usually ships in 24 hoursShips from and sold by Amazon.com
7 new or used available from $16.25 Average customer review:
Product Description
These Dust Respirators are recommended by MSA Safety Works for use against harmful dusts. The dust respirators are approved by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) and meet their requirements for an N95 class respirator. The patented respirator features a specially shaped nosebridge that improves comfort and fit. The masks are latex-free, and feature elastic head straps, and a moldable metal noseband for better fit and comfort. The electrostatic fitler media traps dust while maintaining low breathing resistance

Product Details
Amazon Sales Rank: #11613 in Home Improvement
Brand: MSA Safety Works
Model: 10005043
Number of items: 20
Dimensions: .81 pounds
Features
NIOSH approved N95 class
Patented nosebridge improves comfort and fit
Latex - free and hypoallergenic for users with sensitive skin
Electrostatic filter media traps dust while maintaining low breathing resistance
Twenty respirators per package
Editorial Reviews
From the Manufacturer These Dust Respirators are recommended by MSA Safety Works for use against harmful dusts. The dust respirators are approved by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) and meet their requirements for an N95 class respirator. The patented respirator features a specially shaped nosebridge that improves comfort and fit. The masks are latex-free, and feature elastic head straps, and a moldable metal noseband for better fit and comfort. The electrostatic fitler media traps dust while maintaining low breathing resistance.

Customer Reviews
NICE PRODUCT THIS PRODUCT IS GREAT. IT FITS UNDER MY WELDING HOOD AND OFFERS MUCH BETTER QUALITY, DURABILITY AND FUME PROTECTION THAN THE CHEAPER PAPER DUST MASKS.